I make these for any chest of drawers/dresser I build, they work great and eliminate the need for a stop (the drawer front does that) As others have already said a dovetail bit. Make the groove (female) part first. Mark the center and half the width of the groove away on one side as well as a depth line and line the widest/deepest part of the bit up where those to lines meet and route it out. Flip the board around and route out the other side so your groove is perfectly centered (I'm using a router table here), then bump the fence over and route out any waste in the center. Sand the bottom smooth and round the sharp edges over with some sandpaper. Make them extra long and a few extras. The male part is a little trickier. If you are doing inset drawers the thickness of the bottom lip matters as it will affect your reveal. I use nylon wear pads on the front frame (for the drawer sides to run on). I make my drawers so that the bottom lip of these protrude below the drawer the same thickness as the nylon pads (which also sets my reveal). It's not critical to get them dead on perfect but it's around 1/16". To make the male runner part plane your stock down to the thickness you need for the lip + depth of groove - ~1/32" (or just make them first and adjust your drawer, or make the drawer fronts protrude below the sides and plane them down for your reveal that way). Cut your stock the same width as the groove. Set the router bit depth the same as the groove then drop it down ever so slightly (1/32" or so) and the fence for a very light pass, route both sides of a test piece and check the fit, bump the fence and repeat until you get a good fit. A good fit you'll have a little slop to it but not a ton and it won't bottom out. Again sand and round over the sharp edges. I make mine out of hard maple so that they will hold up over time. Grain direction matters so make sure yours matches what's shown in the picture. Installing I put a small miter on the front edges of the male runner so that it makes it a little easier to install the drawer without damaging the runner. I countersink a hole in the front/back for a screw. The female part I center on the bottom of the (removable plywood) drawer bottom and glue it on. If either parts breaks in the future I can remove and replace them. The runner I set back from the front of the dresser by the thickness of of the drawer front, which makes the drawers flush and acts as a stop. As a lubricant I use paraffin wax (canning wax). Those come in boxes of 3 soap bar shaped blocks. I just give them a really good coating everywhere that might potentially rub by rubbing back and forth have a dozen times until the wax has worked it's way into the wood. Supposedly a candle or beeswax works too but I like paraffin as it seems to be harder. Answer from diito on reddit.com