Looks like you’ll have to cut down the frame a bit so you can grind bevels off the left hand side of the machine. I’m no doctor, but I think it might also be underpowered. If you are a hobbyist and someone gave it to you, you could probably get by with it. That said, I’d probably save my money and buy a better machine. The Grizzly 2x42 is only like 300 bucks. It’s not perfect, but I think it would be a way better place to start. More on reddit.com

I could do with a finger sander for some areas that are difficult to get other things in, and have plenty of angle grinders kicking about, so I'll have a look at one of these. ... Somerset. Uk ... Most of the dynabrade type belt sanders have a backing pad that goes between the back side of ... More on mig-welding.co.uk

Can anyone recommend a good belt sander attachment for an angle grinder (dewalt) ive seem a couple in fabrication clips where they are sanding down around some roll tubing that’s already welded up in a frame Im not talking about the 1 inch wide king needle ones. Although im always looking out... More on race-dezert.com

Handheld Belt sander: Brute hogging of material. Usually to bring an out-of-flat surface to close-to-flat for handplaning, or to hog down protruding tenons to the point where they can be sanded with a more finesse method. Angle Grinder w/ a Disc Sanding Attachment: Don't do it. Hogging out similar to the belt sander, but with less control, and shorter abrasive lifespan Dual Action Sander: (DA Sander)(these look a lot like Random Orbit Sanders - but ain't. Usually shaped similarly to a angle grinder). Faster than a ROS at taking down stock, useful for finish work when doing paint-grade work. Random Orbit Sander: Finish work on flats. Reciprocating Sander ('detail sanders'): if you do production work - batches of a hundred picture frames at a time, for example - detail sanders, where the abrasive is held to a form matching the contour of what you're sanding, is handy. Overarm Belt Sander: Fantastic for cutting boards. Spendy & square-footy. Overarm Drum Sander: Same as above, a bit less spendy. Shorter abrasive life, but it's still pretty long-lasting. Sanding blocks, sponges, similar handheld abrasives: great for contours when you're not doing them in enough bulk to warrant a recip sander w/ a custom form block. Spindle Sander, oscillating or not: great for internal curves, external curves, anything where you don't need to maintain linear flat. Drum Sander mounted in a Drill Press: Fastest way to drop the quill and take your drill press out of commission for an hour or so while you re-install the quill. Don't do this. Drill Presses aren't made for radial loads. Drum Sander mounted in a handheld drill: Fantastic way to wreck the gearing in your drill. Drills aren't made for radial loads. Edge Sander: good for quickly jointing small pieces. Bench-mounted belt sander: good for curved pieces, but can be a bit brutish. Standalone large disc sander: good for small flats. I've definitely missed a few. Typical for home-gamer is a handheld belt sander for coarse, big work, and a random orbit sander. If you're going to specialize in cutting boards (doesn't everyone on the planet already have enough cutting boards? Where the heck is this market that's buying 'em?), an overarm belt sander is great, and works great as a impromptu planer for small stock that's too small to run through an actual planer... Re: brands, Ridgid, almost without exception, makes crap. You'll just buy another of the tool in a year or so. Save money in the long run and buy something good. More on reddit.com