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Reddit
reddit.com › r/iphoneography › my tips for advanced technical iphone photography
r/iPhoneography on Reddit: My tips for advanced technical iPhone photography
May 10, 2024 -

If you want your phone to shoot like a DSLR then treat it like a DSLR

  1. Use manual settings

Lowest ISO is the way to obtain the finest quality possible surpassing even iPhone's image stacking when you shoot handheld. You can easily shoot auto in excellent lighting but once it's getting dark consider using manual settings to capture at the lowest ISO. I use ProCamera app for it and couldn't find anything more convenient to me.

2) Shoot RAW

Not the housewife's ProRaw introduced in 12 pro but the real RAW. It's accessible on every iPhone since 6s and is superior than ProRaw in terms of detail, weight, processing speed but there's a catch: it must be shot at... the lowest ISO possible! There's also the new 48 mp ProRaw which is of course more detailed in daylight than any true RAW capped to 12mp max but that ProRaw is not resolving all the 48 megapixels (in fact, 24mp at most), it is always using auto settings and it can't benefit from advanced RAW denoising because ProRaw isn't a true RAW. Not to mention ProRaw weighs up to 7 times more than RAW and you can't shoot quick series of ProRaws. They both have their own advantages but RAW has more.

3) Shoot RAW... exposure brackets!

The dynamic range of an iPhone RAW is about 10-11 EV stops. In ProRaw it's about 13-14 stops. But with a RAW exposure bracket you can reach up to 16 stops! You'll have more highlight details and cleaner shadows in extreme DR situations but there's some work to do just like using any DSLR... You'll need to import your exposure brackets to the desktop version of Lightroom or ACR and merge them into HDR. I find Camera M and ProCamera to be the best for shooting EB because they do it instantly while also using OIS or IBIS (stabilization) which is important for minimizing shifting between EB frames when handheld. Most other cameras don't do that.

4) Color calibration and white balance

The default adobe RAW profiles are unsurprisingly color inaccurate. Why is the sky cyan and not blue, why is the skin tone too orange or too yellow? No one calibrated your iPhone RAW colors at Adobe that's why. To solve this problem you can buy an X-rite color palette and use their software to create a .dcp profile for your camera on your own OR buy this profile from someone who's already done that and sells it. I know only Cobalt Image who makes these calibrated profiles for iPhones, I bought one and was satisfied enough. The second part of the equation is the white balance. To achieve the perfect neutral photo temperature you must shoot dozens of RAWs in sunny and cloudy weather conditions (or even with different types of artificial lighting if you need) in order to see what's the most common WB value. Then you create your WB presets with them for each lighting type. Be careful because a WB value from the main camera might not look the same on tele or ultra wide cameras. You must shoot dozens of RAWs using all of your back cameras! And so when your camera fails to nail the WB in let's say a cloudy greenish forest you can use the precise WB presets you created instead of eyeballing it.

Top answer
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I shoot RAW on iP8 with 3rd party apps that support OIS. When i saw results from iP12 Pro when taken with ProRaw, i couldn't believe how shitty those results were. So yeah.. RAW>>>>ProRaw. It's shame that one have to use 3rd party app to get best results. And BIG THANKS goes to you! I learned a lot from you and you are the reason i still shoot on iP8. I wanted to upgrade to iPx but i'm not sure i can live without touch ID. Your photos made with iPx are result of everything you wrote above. Keep inspiring us man!
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The more I have taken photos with my iPhone, the more I am noticing how the over-processing that the algorithm that apple uses (Deep Fusion, noise reduction, white balance etc.) are ruining my photos. I simply want to be able to turn this processing off. We used to be able to a few software versions ago by turning off the "Auto HDR" switch. Due to the over-processing that occurs, I have been shooting in RAW either in Halide or Reeflex. I am very much so into editing so I don't mind the developing work in ACR and Photoshop. I use a linear profile for whichever lens took the shot which is great. It flattens everything out and I can build it up in Photoshop. I guess my main question is assuming that I am shooting in ProRaw "48 MP." When I open the ProRaw file in Lightroom, there is an "amount" slider at the top. If I reduce that down to zero, am I taking away all of the processing and still have the 48MP photo that is as close to Bayer RAW as possible? Then I can develop from this point? I could try and reduce the amount slider down to 30-40% to give that a shot. I am trying to still maintain details in the photo that often get shooting in RAW that are smudged out with the processing that is normally done on a ProRAW image. I hope that I am making sense here! Thanks, D-
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