The keychron OSA is NOT a normal/typical OSA. At all. I have both. “Normal” OSA, indeed has SA tops, shallow spherical dished like SA and same area as SA, but at OEM height. The overall sculpt between rows and row angle that is a bit of a hybrid between SA and OEM, more OEM than SA, except for the top rows which are a bit mor like SA (function row is taller than number row for example in OSA, but are the same in OEM. Keychron OSA are an entirely different sculpt and shape. To me, Calling them OSA is quite misleading in that OSA is already in use (if not often) and these are not that. Or even a close clone of that. The overall sculpt and row angle s are more cherry than OEM from what I can tell. That’s great as cherry is so much better ergonomically than oem in terms of sculpt and row angles. The height is OEM plus however (NOT SA height. Not anywhere close to it). the top function row the same as the number row, as are the bottom two rows. The top of each cap is proportioned and sized like OEM , rectangular and may appear to have what one might call an elliptical dish shape, but Really it it is cylindrical, not spherical. Cherry sculpt, OEM height, cylindrical tops but with SA style curved sides (rather than straight). Like half an egg cut off by a cyclical knife. It’s very specific to keychron and not what I think most think of as OSA. Since they are not spherical toos, which is what the S in SA or other profile stands for, calling these OSA is just plain wrong. Fwiw, I wanted to like what I’m calling normal OSA but the dish was too shallow for me and I’m not a fan of OEM sculpt at all.Keychron OSA tops are better in regards to the top shape but are a bit of a strange appearance. The rounded sides of the Keychron OSA mean they are also relatively large in terms of INTERIOR volume. I suspect the internal volume is more like XDA or even SA OR MT3 than OEM. But they are also relatively thin and brittle pbt so they do funky and unpredictable things with switch sound; they seem more clacky than thocky. They are like megaphones for higher frequency sounds. Any clatter in the switch or stabs are emphasized in both feel and sound to offensive levels of awfulness. Any rattle at all is amplified many fold by the larger keycaps stabilized or not) and in ways that drown out any thock with the higher frequencies that sound like a cheap baby rattle. With gateron pro blues, even the 1u caps emphasize clatter and plastic clackiness l. It should be against the law of keyboard aesthetics to use these with Mx blues…the “click” such as it is to begin with turns into something that sounds like a Lego being tossed around in a keycap size clothes dryer. Honestly it sounds like your switch is broken! With box jades or box pinks or even box mute jades, they are nice, with the thin tops emphasizing tactility of the click bar. And while They emphasize tactility (great) that means the also emphasize unwanted things like scratchiness. So you want smooth linears or silent tactiles. Though they are quite nice with lubed halo trues and glorious pandas, which even lubed can be a bit scratchy. Honestly, depending on the switch they can feel and sound like thin and cheap ($15-25) pbt OEM sets you can find everywhere online. Think rkgaming pudding oem. Depending on the switch they sound worse than the thin and cheap XDA sets you can get for similar prices. They sound “thinner” than the bottom edges look or the 1.3mm spec suggests, as if they thin out to under a mm towards the top. And they feel very brittle, far more so than the thick pbt sets I have in cherry, mda, mt3. have complained that they have caps that cracked near the stem, which indicates they are indeed thin and brittle. Also the keychron legends are unacceptable even for $15-20 double shot pbt. They look like bad or reject dyesub not double shot. The legends are very inconsistent in terms of thickness/boldness and size of letters. The legend of my backspace key is noticeably crooked. One control key is wildly off center, the other is centered. How does that happen with double shot keycaps except if the molds for the SAME key themselves have unacceptable variations? These are not minor misalignments but obvious things that should have been caught in quality control of any sort. Apart from QC, in terms of design, most of the modifier legends are too bold and large horizontally relative to the size of the top of the cap while the alphas seem too small and thin relative to the modifiers’ text. It looks like one designer did the alphas and arrows and a different one did the mods, functions and nav and that they did not talk to each other. For $50 including shipping there are better options and if I payed that much for a set I would not be pleased. For $20 including switches on the keychron q series prebuilt vs barebones I guess they are fine. Mainly because the switches are worth at least $10-15 if those are the switches you want (though I think only the linears offered are acceptable with these caps). I’d rather have a good thick pbt CHERRY profile that one can get in that price range by Akko and others. Or even MDA clone pbt which is a lower profile but deep sculpt of with XDA sized and shaped tops. and they tend to be very thick. Not my cup of tea but the $30 including one day shipping shipped pbt epomaker set I have is far better in terms of material, legends, and sound than the keychron funky OSA. MDA is a great profile but I have decided I like caps with a deeper but smaller dish and/or sharper edges. Hence cherry or mt3. Or AFSA, which is an MG/topre Hi-pro style tops (deeply dished spherical but more squared off and larger than mt3) with an SA overall sculpt but at OEM height. Those are so comfortable yet precise. Akko’s ASA (sort of a KAT OSA hybrid) pbt can be had for around the same price once in adds keychron’s crazy high shipping charges, and are better quality and offer far more color ways. Drop is having a 2 for 1 special on mt3 right now, bringing each set down to keychron cap price range if you can go in with a friend. And any of thise, abs or pbt are in an entirely different and higher league. Keychron keycaps are often the weakest link of their boards, normal or low profile. They often get “creative” when it’s either bit needed or I’ll advised without far more research than they seem to be willing to do and thus blow it on quality or quality control or ergonomics. When it’s the stock caps that come with a board built to a price point that might be fine. Though it is increasingly an issue relative to competitors. Compare the keycaps on the K3 to the similarly low profile at nuphy or vissles for example (and you can’t use any other keycaps on keychron low profile boards because of their use of non standard stabilizers positions (to no actual be if it). But I would not buy a stand alone set of keycaps from them. They also to have a tendency introduce new products with problems that are almost at the beta testing stage, but to improve with version 2 of things. Maybe version 2 of keychron OSA will be the same.
By breaking down the specs, the Keychron OSA Keycaps aren't the thickest, but they're definitely don't seem to be any other major flaws, at least on paper. The OSA profile seems to be a spherical, slightly shortened, and modified version of SA and is taller than OEM and Cherry. ASA Profile is similar but seems to be shorter than OSA (OSA is closer to SA in height, whereas ASA seems to be closer to OEM in height). After shipping, the Keychron OSA Keycaps are around $50. Akko's keycaps are around $60 on Amazon with (presumably) free shipping. I'd say the Keychron OSA Keycaps may be the better value, but you can't really go wrong with either. Just don't expect the Keychron OSA Keycaps to be $30 like it says they are on the website, since Keychron's website hides the shipping costs until you are ready to check out.