Since you don't yet have drywall up anywhere, I would fur one entire wall out 3/4". Then attach your drywall to that and you don't have to deal with the return.
With openings on each wall, it's a decision of which wall is easiest to fur out. First, make sure that either one would work (e.g. if you fur out the right, make sure your drain still lines up). Then you have to make the door or window jamb work with the deeper wall. Even if the door wall is easier to fur out, I'd still go with the window wall, simply because a prehung door & custom window would be easier than the other way around.
And completely unrelated to your question, but something I wish I knew when I put in my first tub - pack the tub full of insulation, in addition to the walls. A piping hot bathtub cools off mighty quickly.
Answer from Drew on Stack Exchange36" x 36" Shower Kit with Door on a Budget
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Since you don't yet have drywall up anywhere, I would fur one entire wall out 3/4". Then attach your drywall to that and you don't have to deal with the return.
With openings on each wall, it's a decision of which wall is easiest to fur out. First, make sure that either one would work (e.g. if you fur out the right, make sure your drain still lines up). Then you have to make the door or window jamb work with the deeper wall. Even if the door wall is easier to fur out, I'd still go with the window wall, simply because a prehung door & custom window would be easier than the other way around.
And completely unrelated to your question, but something I wish I knew when I put in my first tub - pack the tub full of insulation, in addition to the walls. A piping hot bathtub cools off mighty quickly.
What I would do...
Get pan and enclosure out of the box and see how far they are from fitting. I do not trust dimensions on boxes. 1/4" is a big deal.
You also need to do step 1 to make sure that you reroute your drain line appropriately. If you are furring out a wall I usually suggest the non-plumbing wall but it sure seems that your hot and cold lines are actually in the playing area - so my suggestion would be to fur out that side. This mean drain goes to the left.
Do not drywall behind these things. Using furring strips or jut out a 2x4.
Pack the walls with insulation before your install. Some people will suggest skipping the area below shower valve but I pack everything. Doing this will provide all kinds of returns including soundproofing, warmer shower, a shower that isn't echoey, a shower that isn't as flimsy, and so on. It is a must.
If you really are at 3/4" inch I would suggest double drywalling outside the shower on the plumb side. Lay down 3/4" drywall then whatever over that to cover shower lip.
I'm looking to redo our 36x36 shower. The current shower has a crack in the floor. It's a one piece and will have to be removed and replaced.
I was set to go with the Delta Classic 500 36x36 shower kit, but the Classic 500 base doesn't have a door that works with it. Delta is aware and doesn't really have any solutions.
Anyone install a 36x36 you could share and show your results?