I'm aware I'm about to type a complicated post to read & follow here, bear w/ me. I owned an R2, but not anymore. If I said the right side of case has the FIO board & left side is the mthrbrd etc, if I then said your pics show a door panel LED connector & also a case LED 'latch' + contacts (prongs), simply put a panel LED portion & also a case latch portion, then is this correct? A) The R5 right panel LED + Latch works & the left side is iffy (due to prong damage) B) Because panels interchange, u can swap panels such that the right side always lights using either R5 panel & left side is iffy w/ either panel (we'd expect that to be true), thus both R5 panels always light up & are thus known good (I know both R5 side panels work but need to ask) C) Neither R2 left or right panel will light up on the good RIGHT side of the R5 case, let alone on the iffy left side ... so ... D) You swapped out the left R5 black-wire, 6-pronged latch in favor of an otherwise 'good' R2 latch & still not JUST the R2 panels but ALSO the R5 panels refuse to light up on left side of case now?   Hmph. So, neither R2 panel will light up w/ either of the R5 latches, & neither R5 panel will light up on the LEFT w/ the 'good' R2 latch installed ??? ... hmph indeed 1) R2 & R5 panel LEDs both color-code as Wht-Blk-Ylw-Org-Brn-Brn? If so, a good sign R2-R7 case panels share the 'same' LED panel wiring setup 2) R2 & R5 do NOT share the same FIO board type though ...  3) Both latch types are 6-wire / 6-prong & if the R2 connector-end plugs into the R5 FIO board header ok then one would think the LED, latch & FIO would all work the same, no change in design or pinout etc over R2-R7 production span (that'd make sense, yet we're here w/ an issue)  Ok, let's call the R2 latch, its GRN wire pin1, BLK wire pin6, & as a test, I'd get paper & pen & a DVM voltmeter w/ continuity tester w/ audible alarm (or set to Ohms), probe both latch types at each end on all 6pins, jot down the results & see if they wire the same left-to-right, rather try to prove they 'share the same pinout' or not. They should, but who knows *If they share the same pinout, the R2 type should work: report back w/ your pinout findings on both latch types Best bet's to FIX the R5 latch prong(s), by sight, making sure they all line up the same etc, & I'm aware it's far faster to just pop the panel off time & again til the prongs all proven work, but u also could lay the panel flat on the floor, unscrew the panel LED contact-plate & if possible, manually press & physically LOOK AT the plate as it contacts the R5 latch prongs, see if the prong's being fixed & lining up etc. Or, if contact-plate can not reach that way?, unscrew / remove the panel's metal backplate, remove the LED strips + contact-plate & manually press the contact-plate to the prongs as above ... this will help u see inside as to what is up w/ the prong not making contact to the plate & go from there, fix it, dial it in etc  Tip: try to fix your original R5 prong(s), or get the part# off of its part tag & replace it w/a new or used R5 latch. Good luck EDIT: it's possible but unlikely the R2 & R5 panel LEDs, though they share the same color-code on the board / contact-plate, are different regardless or despite of this. Proving the R2 R5 latch pinouts are the same or not is step one & we'd go from there, since to me, swapping on the R2 latch & yet the R5 panel(s) won't light up is the 1st mystery Edit: 'Pin 2' circled looks bad, corrrect it w/ a precision tool, 'straighten', then test, then look at 1 4 5, straighten as necessary

*Case

Well which Area 51 case are you talking about? Is it the Area 51 ALX desktop Case? Or the Area 51 R2 through the R7 Series Desktop? Also, I know that these cases support standard atx motherboards. While the case is proprietary, you can work around that and install aftermarket components inside the case.

All of the aluminum panel parts are glued/epoxied to the ABS-type plastic backers, 'permanently'. I'd say they can not be removed/separated & then reapplied/glued/expoxied afterwards, the metal would warp or dent or wrinkle or otherwise incur damage in the attempt of prying apart. While plenty of people have done paint jobs successfully by carefully masking-off areas (ie chrome strips etc) You'll ruin the top panel before u get it separated from its backer (I assume u want to 'push' the dings back & otherwise flatten them starting from behind, but u really can't), so for the panel dings I'm forced to suggest 'Bondo' then sand then prime then paint, or try to find a new panel & paint it. Try to chat @ Dell Spare Parts for part# R841R lunar shadow front panel / bezel, or try google/eBay Tip: take great care of the ribbon cable when putting the bottom panel back on / back together (per photo #1) Any thoughts on what color change you're after? For PSU, just slide in an aftermarket type when you're ready for one, it will have fan clearance no problem, just needs a 120/140mm dust filter (or screen-mesh) to catch/protect from falling sc rews etc, see my page  I can't visualize what your vents are doing, lol, generally, launch CmndCntr & uncheck the box > 'flare on startup' … other times, vents & start-up 'behavior' can change based on which W10 build/version you're on now or were on or will be on in the future, for better or worse For vents on W10, try here? Area-51 R1 Fix Top Vents Not Closing w/ Windows 10 'Start button, Settings, Accounts, Sign-in-options, Scroll down to Privacy and turn OFF 'Use my Sign-in info to Automatically finish setting up my device and reopen my apps after an update or restart' ... now shutdown PC, did vents close? If yes, good.' … if not, try the other tips