This is a very difficult question to answer, because it's so subjective. Some people prefer lighter springs and some people prefer heavier ones. Equally so, some people prefer tactile switches that have a 'bump' feeling on activation.

You don't have to guess at the activation forces or rely on hearsay - pretty much every manufacturer will detail the exact activation forces. The Wooting 60HE needs a 40g force to begin moving the stem, with 60g at the bottom of the stroke (the spring becomes stiffer as it compresses). Because it's a Hall-effect switch, you can adjust the point at which the switch activates. So you could set it so that a 0.1mm press will cause a keystroke to register or you might set it all the way to 4mm. The former will only require a momentary 40g force, the latter will require 60g of force.

If you're really concerned about gaming performance, and are skilled enough for it to matter, then keyboard latency becomes relevant. SteelSeries claims the Apex Pro Mini is the fastest keyboard on the market. It isn't, but it does have a low latency. Testing shows it achieves a 1.9ms latency, which is very good indeed. And that's far beyond my skills in playing games.

You might want to look up Rtings excellent chart of its test results to see how various keyboard stack up.
https://www.rtings.com/keyboard/tests/latency

Latency in keyboards is unavoidable. A USB keyboard is, by default, read 125 times a second. Any keypress won't be transmitted until one of these read cycles. Some keyboards can use the faster 1000Hz polling method, meaning the keyboard is read every millisecond. But there is also the delay caused by the signal travelling through the electronics of the keyboard and, in the case of purely mechanical switches, the de-bounce time.

All switches with moving mechanical parts suffer from bounce. When the two metal contacts touch, they don't do so irrevocably. The contacts judder and bounce slightly before they settle into a steady state. So to read a switch reliably, you need to wait for this bounce to end, otherwise instead of reading a pulse, you'd read a series of rapidly-fluctuating pulses. How long this de-bounce waiting period is varies between keyboards. Some even allow you to manually control the de-bounce period, though that is quite rare.

Which weight of spring will suit you best? How low a latency do you need? Only you can answer these questions. Your current Logitech has an actuation force of 45g (to start moving), but the tactile bump actuates at 60g and the operating point beyond that is 50g. So you are currently pressing keys with 60g of force. Logitech may say 45g, but that's misleading as it's only the force required to start moving the key. Do you find the 60g force to be too much or is it fine? Do you like the tactile (bump) nature of the switch?

As for keyboard layout, it's up to you too. ANSI is more widespread, simply because of the large American population. If you later want to customise your keyboard through changing the keycaps and the like, you'll find it easier to get ANSI parts. If you do a lot of typing on the same keyboard, you may prefer ISO, especially if you use diacritic marks - such as in Norwegian or French. But the physical layout of the keyboard doesn't determine the logical layout. You can switch layouts in software, so you're not just stuck with one. Personally, I use ISO, but I have ANSI keyboards that I can use without any problem. Your mileage may vary. There is no inherent advantage of one layout over another.

As for size, 60% is the most popular among mechanical keyboard enthusiasts, but I would say TKL is the more flexible. If you're used to a full-size keyboard, you might find it difficult to manage without dedicated function keys or a numeric keypad. I don't play Fortnite, so I don't know if you need these. If you got for a 60%, you need to use a modifier key with the numbers in order to entre function key presses (usually Fn + 6 for F6, etc). TKL retains everything except the numeric keypad, so there's no difference from a full-size. And you can always add an external numeric keypad later if you wish. One advantage for right-handed games players is that the mouse can sit closer to the main keyboard with a TKL. Ordinarily, a full-size has the numeric keypad on the right, meaning your mouse hand is further to the right. I've got a TKL with an external numpad and I keep mine on the left, so the mouse is more central. So if you're not sure, got with a TKL because you can evolve it back up to be the equivalent of a full-size if you later find out you want to.

One feature I would always recommend in a mechanical keyboard is hotswap. On the majority of keyboard, the switches are soldered into the circuitboard. If you have a keyswitch fail, you need to disassemble the board and desolder the faulty switch to replace it. With a hotswap board, the switches are inserted into small holders (that are soldered to the circuitboard) and can be removed and replaced without disassembling the keyboard or doing any soldering. I found the other day that my N key was sometimes generating a double press. Rather than investigate further or see if I could live with it, I yanked the switch and replaced it with another. I was done in seconds. So I'd very much recommend a hotswap board.

Watch out for non-standard switches too. Your Logitech uses Romer G switches, which are peculiar to Logitech and it's not easy to get spare ones. Never mind that they're soldered in. You also can't change the keycaps for anything else, because of the non-standard mountings on the top. The Wooting board you mentioned uses Lekker switches which, due to their Hall-effect nature, can't be swapped with any Cherry MX-compatible, but they do have standard Cherry MX mounts on top, so you can change the keycaps easily. The Wooting is hotswappable though, so just order a few extra switches if you buy it to safeguard yourself.

Lastly, I would say to watch out for big brand prices. Logitech, Steelseries and the other big brands tend to be more expensive than they can actually justify. You're paying for the name. They also don't tend to be as well-made either. But if you don't mind the price, there's nothing inherently wrong with them. A lot of keyboard snobs will decry a SteelSeries or a Corsair as junk, but they're perfectly fine. Indeed the Corsair K65 RGB MINI tests and is reviewed well. Rtings currently has it as the lowest latency keyboard they've tested and regard it as solidly-made.

I hope these notes help you make your choice. A lot of it is very subjective. I'm using a GMMK V2 TKL, which I like a lot, but some would regard as unusable. But I have spent quite a lot of time and money modifying it to my exact taste. You probably don't want to go that far!

Wooting. Features, Quality, Support, Software, Swag.

The best keyboard for you is the one you like most. A keyboard won’t improve your skill in game. Going from a membrane keyboard to mechanical may give you a slight improvement since the force required to press a key is lower on mechanical keyboards (usually).

The general consensus is that linear switches are best for gaming. Most keyboards come with the option of linear, tactile, and clicky. But the best switch is the one you like most. The switches are the primary thing that changes the way a keyboard feels, not the keyboard itself, so I’d recommend going to Best Buy or micro center or somewhere like that to test out some keyboards and decide what feels best to you. If you want the absolute lowest possible latency, look for optical switches. But just so you know the difference will be basically imperceivable from a regular switch.

Some recommendations I would give are anything by Keychron, they’re inexpensive and consistently good quality. I’d also recommend getting one with hot swap sockets so you can change the switches out to try different types.

If you have some more money to spend, the Glorious GMMK Pro is a high quality, highly customizable board.

And there’s a lot more that aren’t from traditional gaming brands. In my experience you can get a lot more quality for your money if you stay away from the big brands like Corsair, Logitech and Asus.

Edit: I should add that if you want the absolute best latency, wired is always consistent. But if you want wired, try to get something with 2.4ghz. Bluetooth isn’t bad but it does add latency and can be finicky at times.

Yes a mousepad is 100000% a necessity. For the KB&M it is definitely worth paying the premium for hardware that lasts. I have a GPX superlight (Although the GPX 2 is now out so consider it) and an apex pro mini. For the mousepad, I have a steelseries qck heavy large. Don’t forget glass mouse skates.