The best kind of paint for painting furniture depends on the type of furniture you are painting, the look you are trying to achieve, and your personal preferences. Here are a few options to consider: Chalk Paint: Chalk paint is a popular option for furniture painting as it requires minimal preparation, adheres well to most surfaces, and dries to a matte, velvety finish. It's also easy to distress or create a vintage look with chalk paint. Milk Paint: Milk paint is a natural, water-based paint that gives a matte, slightly translucent finish. It works well on unfinished or raw wood furniture and can be used to create a variety of looks, from a rustic, weathered appearance to a smooth, modern finish. Acrylic Paint: Acrylic paint is a versatile option that can be used on most types of furniture, including wood, metal, and plastic. It dries quickly, is easy to clean up, and comes in a wide range of colors and finishes. Oil-Based Paint: Oil-based paint is durable and provides a smooth, glossy finish, making it a good choice for high-use furniture like tables and chairs. However, it can be more difficult to work with and requires solvents for cleanup. Ultimately, the best paint for your furniture will depend on the specific piece you are painting, the look you want to achieve, and your own preferences and skill level. Be sure to choose a paint that is appropriate for the surface you are painting, and follow the manufacturer's instructions for preparation, application, and cleanup. More on reddit.com

Okay so you are going to paint it white - I hate to say it but hardware store aerosol paint cans could be alright here but I am a puritan for this stuff so I would never use aerosol unless I knew it would be a strong finish - in the event I used aerosol I would buy the handle that makes it more like using a spray gun. Also aerosol cans tend to leave a less smooth surface as compared to spray gun (this less than smooth surface is referred to as orange peel and is more of an issue on something that has been repainted many times - sanding between coats can help with this but I digress) So really the issue isn't so much that you are painting the chairs itself but choosing the right brand and type of paint for this job can be difficult and more work than going and doing other things. For example - trim (semi-gloss) paint for a house there can be some good stuff if you use a good brand (like sherwin or benjamin moore or I imagine some ppg or id you are canada dulux, as well as others with higher solids than the hardware store) but really that paint isn't meant for this kind of application it is meant for window trim, door trim, baseboards, etc. What you need is a furniture grade/type of paint (preferrably semi-gloss or more glossy for these because these are nice chairs and should be shown off and pop) that is good for high wear environments - usually the paint stores I listed have tonnes of different product for things like cabnits etc so ask about chairs and what they reccomend and go to the places I listed - even if you leave empty handed if you talk to the employees you may learn a lot that can help you. With that said perhaps in your area there is no specific paint for chairs and what you are dealing with - don't fret there is still options just go with something else that will dry hard, last a long time, etc. For instance even though it is more like house paint ppg has a paint called "breakthrough" and whenever someone wants something kind of weird painted that you worry about adhesion this is the thing to go for - very durable stuff - I've seen it painted on a stress ball and you can squeeze the stress ball and no worries of paint coming off (more so speaks of it's flexibility than strength but nonetheless impressive and it lasts well too - however in canada I have dulux which is owned by ppg and the breakthrough price per gallon is like $140 or something so I always look for alternatives - in the states ppgs sells breakthrough at a much more reasonable price I hear. Carrying on - cabnits are another place where there is bumping, potentially scratching, touched a lot, potential wear etc - hence cabnit paint is also very resiliant. I don't know which out of sherwin or benj makes cabnit-coat/cabnitcoat/cabnit coat but that could potentially be what you go for as well. Now this is by no means exhaustive there is other even more hardcore strong paints for things like marine finishes that are strong, would last forever, etc, but if you get something good it will be nasty smelling already probably so let's not get to crazy and stay in the realm of reason. A product I've been eying personally is a paint that is a hybrid between oil and latex (here in canada atleast pure oil is going the way of the dinosaur except for things like metal paint) and that would be good because oils dry to a harder finish. Okay so once you finally do sufficient shopping for the right paint there is still actual application - spray is all I'm going to say here - there is a lot to say about advice for spraying however I am not the person as I try to avoid it as much as possible aside from painting say stucco or furniture (and I dont paint much if any furniture). HPLV (air assisted) could be used and perhaps some may reccomend but you would likely need to dilute paint with water which all of a sudden can change the colour (which sucks if you spent a while picking out the exact shade of white with your SO) so I would go with an airless, specifically if you can perhaps a graco sprayer with a fine finish tip. Perhaps you could rent one for a day for not too much Tl;dr: talk to paint store people, use good paint (and primer perhaps- primer makes everything better) good stuff meant for this type of application or an alternative that will be tough, spray it on, touch with a brush in places where you sprayed it on to thick, sand lightly between coats and wipe off the sanding dust More on reddit.com

Do I just sand and paint?

It depends on how you're refinishing the piece, but since you're painting it, you have to add an extra step: priming. Priming is important because two dissimilar finishes won't stick to each other without primer. I suggest using BIN primer. It's a great primer and helps keep old finishes from bleeding through, it also dries really fast, so you can add extra coats or a top coat much faster. You don't need to remove the stain, you can just paint over it after priming. I would sand the end table, but just to smooth any rough edges. I would use primer there as well. You can paint both objects with latex paint, but latex paint has some disadvantages. It stays very soft for quite a while so anything with any kind of weight will stick to it over time, then you go to move the object on the dresser and it pulls up the paint. I would use an oil-based paint instead. That being said, I've painted a couple of pieces with latex paint and haven't had too much trouble.

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You wait to paint, refinish the wood, and/or the fabric? For sale / flipping, or keeping? If keeping, what's the room decor, styles & colors it'll be going into? More on reddit.com