more i shoot with this profile it seems like this camera just isnt made to shoot in CLOG. Your observation is correct. The RP does not support C-Log. Real log is not just a profile like picture styles. More on reddit.com

Really depends what you're trying to achieve. If you want to record an image with the most information possible, use Canon's Neutral profile with sharpening set down to 0 and everything else in their default middle positions. This won't be the washed-out look you're used to seeing for editing, but it does technically retain more information; reducing the contrast slider loses some detail in midtones and reducing the saturation slider also reduces hue detail. Canon's Faithful will give you almost as much information as Neutral but with more accurate initial hue recording, at the cost of some saturation detail. If you're going to be messing with the colour anyway then Neutral makes more sense, but Faithful can look nicer if you actually want to keep colour editing to a minimum. Of course if you want to keep editing really minimal then you could just use the Standard, Portrait, or Fine Detail colour profiles (with sharpening at 0) and leave the footage as-is. I'd leave Landscape alone since it blows saturation out so much. I do like Fine Detail especially as it's got nearly all the information of Neutral with saturation turned up just enough to look 'finished' without crushing too much. A better option than any of the packed-in profiles is to load in a custom one. Canon released their Video X profile for free many years back and it's a great profile either to edit or to use straight out of camera, especially for documentary footage. It retains more dynamic range (not latitude) than Neutral but does have very slightly wonky colours, things tend to go just a hint too green, so if you don't want 'gritty' colour you'll definitely want to spend some time correcting it. Alternatively you can set the colour tone control to -1 to shift everything back more towards magenta. There was a time when things like Technicolor CineStyle would be worth checking out, but that market dropped off after Canon moved to the .PF3 profile format and started putting log recording in more cameras. None of the old profiles like that get updated any more and many look really bad with newer bodies. Personally, I like making my own profiles, and I use a custom edited version of Faithful as a kind of quick 'lazy-log' profile. All you have to do is load up a still .CR2 or .CR3 image in Canon Picture Profile Editor and enter the following points as the tone curve for the RGB curve on the first panel, which is in fact a gamma curve: 0 - 16, 8 or 0 depending on how far you want to push the grading 32 - 57 64 - 87 96 - 111 128 - 133 160 - 157 191 - 180 223 - 207 255 - 255 This will 'undo' the slight S-curve that even the Neutral and Faithful profiles have, giving you a totally flat image with as much shadow and highlight recovery as the .PF3 format can support. It's not full log, but it's close. For the 0 point, at 16 you'll be able to do the most in editing but if you leave it ungraded or don't bring the black point low enough, your blacks will just look grey on some computer monitors and things like OLED TVs which are capable of replicating the full tonal range. Most TVs and phones can't display the full range of black anyway and it'll look fine even if you don't bring the black point down. If in doubt, simply leave the 0 point of the curve at 0. For many of my own profiles I split the difference and stick it at 8, just to be lazy and on the safe side. Of course you could set the other points to more conservative amounts, too, if you'd like to spend less time grading at the cost of a little shadow and highlight information. With that first curve in place, you should then go to the Six Axis panel and reduce all the saturation sliders by about 10 if you're using Neutral as a base or 20 if you're using Faithful. If you're using Neutral then you might want to shift the hue of the yellow section to -2 or so, too, and reduce its range so it's not influencing green as much. Faithful with all the saturations simply set to -20 is technically better. Using the Six Axis panel to reduce saturation is better than using the overall saturation slider, since the overall slider throws away (or blows out, if you increase it) information while the Six Axis saturation sliders retain more nuance. (And of course give you the option of leaving some colours stronger, which I like to do with blues so skies are easier to keep from looking grey.) Now make sure on the first panel you set the sharpening slider to 0 (doesn't matter where fineness and threshold are) and save that profile as a .PF3. (Even if you used a .CR2 still to make the profile, you need to save as a .PF3 in order for the profile to use the RGB gamma curve and Six Axis colour controls.) It's important to make these yourself since not only does it teach you what's going on with your profile, but it ensures your profile has been made with your specific camera in mind and allows you to tweak the profile's creation to suit that particular body, or just to personal taste. Congratulations, you now have your very own lazy log profile that has as much room for editing as possible without shooting actual log. As far as workflow goes, that's entirely down to personal preference and what software (and even hardware) you have available to you. I'll do anything from run-and-gun, just using an in-camera profile and in-camera editing, to spending a week mucking about with 30 seconds of footage in Adobe Premier Pro, all depending on the purpose and what I need/want at that particular time. If you really want a workflow for "the best grade and best image quality" then you're talking about spending a lot of money on a much higher-end camera, shooting to an external recorder, and either spend years training to be or spend a lot of money hiring a professional colourist to grade each clip by hand. Since that is well beyond the scope of most people here, or anywhere, really I just advise you work with whatever you've got to hand, don't worry about getting "the best" per se. TL;DR: Start off just using Neutral and see how you like that. If that's not enough for you, try Canon Video X. If that's not enough for you, edit Neutral or Faithful to have a softer curve. If that still isn't enough, you need to move to a camera with actual log recording or an external recorder. Workflow is mostly personal preference. More on reddit.com

I followed an advice given on the ... video, I do not think I am seeing a flat picture profile. Am I missing something? I am attaching a screenshot of the video I shot for reference. Screenshot of a sample video, Canon EOS RP, 1080p@25fps, F7.1, Tv 1/50... More on dpreview.com

Does anyone know if there are any ... for Eos RP? Also I is there a good video ( flatter ) profile? ... If you're talking about a Picture Style, for the last few years, I have been using one called Cinema. It's designed to provide a flatter style for video. But it's also designed not to absolutely require color grading. I find it's colors more realistic than any of the standard Canon profiles all ... More on dpreview.com