Chain lube goes on the chain. It's liquid and it drips on. We used to use "oil" for this but now there are lubes that are better engineered to provide lubrication without collecting dirt, washing off in the rain, breaking down chemically, etc. You also use this kind of liquid lube on brake pivots, derailleur pulleys and pivots. Probably not the same stuff you use on a chain although some products can serve both purposes. There's really not much more most cyclists need to do other than keeping things clean.
The average consumer of bikes does not need grease. Grease goes on unsealed (loose ball) bearings - wheels, headsets, bottom brackets typically. However a lot of these bearings are sealed now so you can't service them you just replace them.
Anti-seize compound is last. Like grease most consumers won't use this. Also, grease is often used in place of anti seize. This stuff goes on threads. Headsets, bottom brackets, pedals, and basically any little screw or bolt. It can also go on the seat post but you can also use grease for that.
Answer from jqning on Stack ExchangeSo i'm looking to get some grease just for general use on my mtb and was looking for recommendations, leave any below. I was figuring this looked pretty good as I know Maxima is a pretty solid brand in the world of motorsports. Thanks!
Edit: Yeah I realise i spelled the title wrong oops lol
lubricant - What do I grease and what do I lubricate? - Bicycles Stack Exchange
Alternative for suspension grease?
Using Molykote 111 for bike grease
I did not but I would be unwilling to try. It sounds like a silicone seal/o-ring lube more than a bearing grease.
Automotive bearings grease is what I use and it is dirt cheap already (like 5$ for 450g tube).
Alternative for 'bike' grease?
I've used white lithium grease in most places you'd grease a bike. I think it is just fine (and perfectly appropriate) for cables, ball bearings (like BB, headset, hubs), brake pivot points (like QR etc). I'll also put a dab on the pedal threads before installing the pedals on the cranks.
For seatposts, I'd use as little as possible (and never on carbon parts). Put a tiny dab on a rag, and rub it around the seatpost.
Lithium grease (like any grease) can pick grime, so try to keep it clean from exterior places where it would be exposed.
I've never actually greased my derailer, because it is so exposed, I'm worried that it will pick up too much dirt and crap from the road. I think clean is probably better then greasy, or wipe thoroughly with an oily rag.
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Chain lube goes on the chain. It's liquid and it drips on. We used to use "oil" for this but now there are lubes that are better engineered to provide lubrication without collecting dirt, washing off in the rain, breaking down chemically, etc. You also use this kind of liquid lube on brake pivots, derailleur pulleys and pivots. Probably not the same stuff you use on a chain although some products can serve both purposes. There's really not much more most cyclists need to do other than keeping things clean.
The average consumer of bikes does not need grease. Grease goes on unsealed (loose ball) bearings - wheels, headsets, bottom brackets typically. However a lot of these bearings are sealed now so you can't service them you just replace them.
Anti-seize compound is last. Like grease most consumers won't use this. Also, grease is often used in place of anti seize. This stuff goes on threads. Headsets, bottom brackets, pedals, and basically any little screw or bolt. It can also go on the seat post but you can also use grease for that.
Stuff To Use:
- Silicone based lubricant - for all weather conditions - especially good to use in wet or in winter - it's water resistant. It's thicker than teflon based and it's sticky (dust catches onto it making a paste - needs to be re-applied when dirt accumulates).
- Teflon based lubricant - for dry conditions only, thinner and runs smoother than silicon based. Doesn't catch dust so much.
- Wheel Bearing grease - it's thinner than other grease which makes the bearing run smoother. Also good for greasing rubber seals and other moving parts.
- Thread grease / Anti-seize grease - thicker and stickier, for non-moving parts.
- Threadlocker - for securing bolts.
Where to put stuff:
Grease on bolts - for protecting the thread and preventing seizing of the bolt - but read the specifications. Greased bolt takes less force to tighten, so when tighten to spec you might actually over-tighten the bolt when the spec is for dry (should be specified if for dry or greased or with threadlocker, the default is dry when not specified):
Bolts on brake components always require threadlocker (go with medium strength) - this means: caliper fixing bolts for both disc or rim brakes + disc brake rotor bolts or road caliper pads fixing bolts:
Re-apply the threadlocker if the factory one has weared off.
Shimano recommends dry rear derailleur fixing bolt installation, srams recommends to grease it.
Press-fit bottom brackets install dry (the plastic cups into frame). All cartridge bearings should get greased on outer rim (BB30 bearings, etc.):
Put grease on threaded BB's, Spindles, Crank Arm, Spindle interfaces and Seals:
Bearing grease for all bearings insides, for ceramic bearings there is a special lube.
For seatpost apply grease on metal to metal areas. For carbon seatpost apply carbon friction paste.
Grease the pedals spindle threads:
Derailleur pulley bolts should have high-strength threadlocker applied:
Joints of rear suspension systems should be greased.
Mtb chains can be both lubed or greased (if bought new they usually come greased), I would prefer lubing over greasing for road chains. Spray lubricants should not be used on bicycle chains, you can easily contaminate other parts of bike. Rather apply lube on each chain link carefully. Wipe excess lubricant so chain is almost dry on outside to not catch dirt and dust.
Use lube for external bowdens and shifters on old bikes, modern plastic-lined housings are designed to not be lubricated.
Use fork oil for fork servicing and for fork seals.