I’m planning on installing LED light strips on these 8 shelves. Originally was going to slice them up and put extenders between each one and connect them back together and just weave in extensions behind the unit but I can no longer do that due to the build of the unit.
I’m thinking now I’ll need to run each shelf’s light individually (probably behind the wall). The issue I’m facing is that I can’t seem to find a T splitter/connector for the LED strip I’m using (6pin RGBCCT). I then thought maybe I can just individually run each strip (only about 21” each) into the controller channels via the extensions. From a power perspective, will that cause any issues? Thanks!!
I currently have one power supply (24V 3Amp 75W) and one controller.
Power supply: https://a.co/d/i52IwJi
Controller: https://a.co/d/5fWvQ69
Light strip: https://a.co/d/cE4h6l0
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The power adapter for the strips presumably will take an input of 220V if that's your local voltage. [many will take 80-277V, or 100-250V, anyways.] That's what you need to supply from the socket, or by plugging that adapter into the power strip. If your bookcase position requires the illustrated "slim adapter" then you pretty much have to size the power strip to allow for the LED adapter to plug into the power strip, while still having enough open sockets for everything else you want.
If each LED strip requires its own power adapter, you need 3 such adapters. If the strips can run from one adapter, you need one such adapter. In either case, you don't magically pull lower voltage from the wall, unless the magic is ...A power adapter suited to the job, plugged into 220V.
The incredibly poor quality diagram appears to show a single power adapter feeding some sort of low-voltage 3-way junction box. Why the power adapter goes to the bookcases, and the 3 way box is far from the bookcase and the wire to it loops through the bookcase is a matter of "how to make an incredibly poor drawing" as best I can decipher the intent. Which isn't well, given the poor quality.
Assuming your existing socket circuitry is of sufficient amperage to take everything you want to plug into it, you can break this down into two sections.
Get a 4-gang extension. Relace the cable supplied in your extension with the cable from the slim plug [I have never seen a skinny plug like that & wouldn't have high hopes of it being particularly DIY-friendly, so do your re-wiring at the 4-gang end, which is relatively simple.]
Your lighting PSU can now go in the 4-gang, leaving you the three sockets you required.
Common LED lighting strips are all essentially electronically equivalent. They are a simple parallel rail with individual blocks of component every couple of inches or so. Whatever they're packaged in, basically the actual functional light strip is taken from a 100m roll of identical repeating components, then stuck inside a long, fancy box.
So if you need to, you can easily eliminate that over-complex low-voltage socket arrangement.
You can clip off their distribution box, then either run each existing wired lamp unit back to a single junction box, or if you're good with a soldering iron, run them 'step-fashion' from the end of each unit up to the next. This will depend on how easy your access to the rear of the shelf unit is.
Here's an example. One random piece of LED strip with the cover removed. Once inside the fancy box, these strips are all virtually identical. These are all a very, very simple modular design. Any strip, of any length, is to all intents & purposes electronically equivalent, all wired in parallel [even if the cabling looks like it's in series, it's not; because of the rail structure internally].
Depending on manufacturer, the plastic plug on the end can be one of many different types [to make you buy all their kit rather than mix & match to suit your design/pocket]. The other end of this is simply soldered to + and - on one end of the actual functional strip. If you look at the area in the red square, you'll see a line & 4 copper 'dots'. You can cut this strip at any line, then solder to the copper dots.
This means that you can de-solder & replace with any low-voltage cable, of almost any length, in any configuration. You can run into one end of the first strip, then out the other end & to the next strip, or, to use more cable - depending on how well you can route it or hide it, you can run one end of each strip all back to your first junction box, behind the shelving.