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Hi all,
I'm updating the tile around the tub surround in a guest bathroom as a first time bathroom project. I've opened up all the walls around the tub and am planning on a kerdi board install with 12x24 rectified porcelain tile over the kerdi. I've never sweat pipe before so for peace of mind I decided to have a plumber replace the rough in valve for me as the previous one was not compatible with the finished trim kit we picked out. We went with a Moen posi-temp valve, and the instructions indicated to have the valve at 32" above the base of the tub. This is several inches higher than the previous rough in valve.
Here are some pictures of the new valve installation. I have two questions about this I'm hoping to get some input on as this is my first time redoing a bathroom.
Will the slight angle to the left cause a problem with installing the finish trim? I'm hoping that the escutcheon and handle will still be flush / flat with the tile after everything is finished... or at least that it won't be noticeably angled if that makes sense.
Should I add some additional 2x4 blocking behind the rough-in valve itself? I tried wiggling it and it does not move much since the other blocking is right there and the plumber anchored the copper pipe to that blocking. It seems like it should be fine without, but I'm wondering if I should add some anyway just to have the rough-in itself actually screwed in and anchored to something.
Thanks in advance for any help!
I'm slowly preparing to bathroom remodel and one of the things that I don't feel fully comfortable is measuring the distance for the mixing valve. Is there a product out there which would allow me to adjust/flash the valve after tiling? (It will be connected via pex)
Different brands and models of shower valves require different wall-depth installation. You should always follow the installation instructions that came with the valve assembly.
Most valves come with a temporary plastic or cardboard "plate" that illustrates the location of the finished wall surface in relation to the valve-body installation depth. If you do not have that "template" anymore, you can often estimate depth by assembling the trim to the valve and measuring from where the wall surface would be to the mounting holes. You need to locate the supply piping according to final installation depth of the valve, not the other way 'round (not an issue with flexible supply tube like PEX).
Except for special application products, they are made to fit a standard wood-frame wall but may not allow the use of 2 x 4 lumber as a mounting support; in fact, some recommend use of a manufacturer-specific mounting strap/stringer.
Example of depth mounting instructions for a random Delta valve model:
I have installed many. in thick wall install , plaster guard should be and exercise of looking at the trim kit to see how far the handle will protrude from the wall and how much of the center cover is showing. for my Delta installs with 1/2" Travertine i recess 3/8" back . I dont use a full 2x4 stringer. this will accommodate a delta trim later or an after market Danco with a long stem and handle that stick out into shower area. I have recessed deeper so that plaster guard is 1/2" behind flush with tile. years later on that on , i had trouble attaching the handle when changing out trim. I got it on there, it was just a steep angle for the Allan screw.
Tried to lay everything out to avoid fittings behind the wall. The drop ear is for a handheld on a shower bar, and the other output goes to another drop ear above the ceiling for a rain shower head.
Pressure tested with water at 55psi and seems tight. Any red flags I should correct before I prep for tile?