a live edge wood dining table, darker tone, with black industrial legs, or a dark wooden table I think either of these could work. If you add links to tables you like and think would work, you'll get more comments. More on reddit.com

I would go dark to match the cool undertones.

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After 15 years with 3 kids, I have tried expensive thinking quality furniture “can take what we dish out,” and I’ve tried cheap so “I don’t feel bad if it gets wrecked”. Neither worked for me— I stressed too much about the INEVITABLE damage to the expensive furniture, and the cheap stuff looked and functioned exactly as expected (not well). I’ve been happiest with quality furniture bought secondhand off FB marketplace. That way I can pick something of substantial quality so doesn’t feel disposable, but also I don’t feel like I’ve got money sunk into something that can’t be changed out if needed. If we beat it to the point I don’t like looking at it, I put it back up on FB and someone will buy it, and I pick something else for our next era. More on reddit.com

Based on your color criteria, it sounds like you want either walnut with some sapwood. Or maybe cherry. I'm not sure if you can get exactly what you're looking for without some coloring... The downside is that walnut and cherry can be a little pricey. Where to NOT buy wood: Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, et al. Too damn pricey. Where you SHOULD buy wood: find a hardwood lumber yard. Good chance you won't even find them online. YellowPages to the rescue. This is highly dependent on where you live. What state? Cost: Cherry, walnut, and other nice woods are a little expensive. Also, you're typically not buying boards. You're buying board-feet, which is volume. 12"x12"x1" = 1 bf. I prefer to compute the volume in inches and then divide by 144 to turn that into BF. Thicker wood is typically sold at a higher cost per bf, just because it's harder to dry, store, and generally handle that thin stuff. Assuming 78" x 40" table top and 2" thick, that would give you about 44 BF. Buy some extra to let you line up your glue up for a better, more pleasing grain match. Plus there's always waste. So maybe 50-55 BF. Why 2" thick? Obviously, you can adjust this down to suit a style. I prefer to get thicker wood and plane to thickness. Plus rough sawn stuff always finishes a few sixteenths thinner. I'd personally buy 8/4 for most dining tables. So then 55 BF of 8/4. My preferred lumber yard has that at $9.35 for walnut, $4.95 for cherry. Walnut blows your budget ($514 before tax) and cherry is right on target ($272.) Next, I would not do pocket holes. Not for a dining table. Really, not for any kind of table. I would strongly recommend using mortise and tenon for the frame. All you need, beside some careful layout and measuring, is a chisel and mallet for the mortise and a saw for the tenon. As you probably don't have excellent mortise chisels, it might be easier to drill out most of the waste and then clean up with chisels. But it's really up to you. And finally, don't screw the top to the frame. If you do this, the top will expand and contract with seasonal changes and destroy itself. You need to let the top move as it wants to. There exist fasteners that allow this. Or you can make cabinet makers buttons. More on reddit.com