A brushless DC fan has four stator coils and a permanent magnet in the rotor. A hall sensor detects which pole of the permanent magnet is facing towards it and it, in turn toggles power between 2 stator coils opposite of eachother, thereby attracting or repelling the permanent magnet and creating a rotational movement.
Whenever a fan cannot rotate because of undervoltage or being mechanically blocked, the same coils will continue to be powered for a prolonged period. Some of this energy is converted into heat, most of it is converted into a constant electromagnetic field.
Whilst not designed for this, chances of a coil melting are slim. Also, when undervolted, the energy in the coils is low enough to barely attract the rotor, let alone melt.
This website has a page that explains the inner workings of a PC fan.
Answer from BjornR1989 on Stack ExchangeCPU Voltage and fan rpm high
noise - Undervolting PWM fan from 12V to 5V - Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange
"CPU Fan Speed Lower Limit" in BIOS?
CPU fan speed error - Internal Hardware
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Running a PWM controllable fan designed for operation at +12V may run OK at a lower voltage as long as you do not go too low. PWM controlled fans have an IC chip inside and one or more hall sensors. When the applied voltage to the fan gets too low the IC chip will fail to operate correctly. I have found in some experiments that I have done that I was able to get the fans to operate OK at voltages down to about 6.2 volts. Below that the fans would not start reliably and the fan motor lacks torque.
I would personally recommend that you operate a 12V fan at 12V and then use the PWM feature to regulate the fan speed to the level you require.
OK, just took the plunge and re-wired the fan from 12V to 5V.
To my surprise it did start no problem, and is going quite strong with more than sufficient torque - unlike another fan (non-PWM 120mm PSU fan), which doesn't start even at 7V by itself and the torque is very faint when eventually started manually.
Here are the actual experimental results:
Nominal 12V supply. RPM range was, as observed from the fan sensor wire monitoring: 1000-2500.
When modded to 5V, the RPM range got down to: 325-780. Not quite what I was hoping for (I'd be happier with at least 1k RPM at the top end), but still acceptable, at least for the winter time and especially considering the tremendously reduced fan noise level.
Note: the fan used is the Intel stock CPU HSF.
Hello everyone.
Can someone explain to me what the setting "CPU Fan Speed Lower Limit" in BIOS under Fan Control is?
The description says it gives a warning if the fans run below a specified speed.
Should fans not run at a very low speed or what is this for?
I don't have any problems, I just like to know what this is.
"Note: when using a 3-pin power connector with a 4-pin fan header, the fan will always be on; there is no fan control."
http://www.allpinouts.org/index.php/Motherboard_%28CPU%29_4_Pin_Fan
A three-pin fan connector does not include the ability to control speed dynamically, since it lacks the appropriate PWM control logic in the fan itself. PWM fans require explicit support from both the motherboard and fan itself.
If you wish to slow your CPU fan down, you can install a resistor along the the power wire (+12V) in the fan. Alternatively, you can purchase a LNA (low-noise adapter), which is essentially the same thing (although it saves you soldering in a resistor yourself). Due to the tachometer sensor discussed in the next section, you cannot put the resistor on the ground wire. You could also install a hardware fan controller (which is also essentially a resistor, albeit a variable one called a potentiometer).
If you're interested in determining how to slow your fan down with a resistor (it's honestly pretty easy), I have provided calculations at the bottom of this answer. Alternatively, you could use a potentiometer (and use these calculations to provide a rough estimate of the range of resistance needed).
If you do choose to slow your fan down (usually for noise purposes), do ensure that your load temperatures do not get too hot. Slowing down your fan will lower the efficiency of your heatsink's ability to dissipate heat... This is the classical noise versus heat debate all over.
For those wondering why a fan with no speed control even has three wires, the third wire is used as a tachometer output signal. Since it is tied to the same power rail as the motherboard, there is no need for an additional ground wire. According to the fan specifications I linked to above, the standard is to provide two "pulses" per revolution. The motherboard (and your hardware monitoring software) can then infer the speed of the fan from the rate of these voltage "pulses".
(I say "pulses" because the tachometer pin is pulled high by the motherboard, and every time it is "pulsed", the fan pulls the pin to ground, or 0V - and this is why you can't put a resistor on the ground wire if you want to slow the fan down).
To calculate the resistor you need (to put in series with the +12V wire), first determine the fan's voltage and power draw (usually listed on the fan itself). Let's assume the the fan runs on +12V, and draws 1W, and we want to slow it down to 75% of the original speed (or, drop the power down to 0.75W).
The original internal resistance of the fan is given by R = V2/P (a variation of Ohm's law and Joule's laws), and the new resistance we need will be R = V2/(0.75P). Thus, we need a resistor of size:
Rnew = V2/(0.75P) - V2/P = V2[(1/0.75P) - (1/P)].
Plugging in our numbers, we get Rnew = 12V2[(1/0.75W) - (1/1W)] = 48 Ohms. Thus, you would need to put a 48 Ohm resistor in series with the +12V fan supply to slow it down by 75% (assuming it originally draws 1W). If you have a soldering iron and some heatshrink/electrical tape handy, the resistor should cost you no more then $0.15 - just make sure the resistor is rated to at least 0.75W (preferably 1W).
I'm trying to choose a new case for my PC. I haven't really played with RGB before, and figured why not start now. Wall of text + confusion rant below. Currently, on the short list (based mainly on Gamer's Nexus best of 2019 list):
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Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL
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Lian Li O11 Dynamic
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Phanteks P400a
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Thermaltake V200
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Fractal Design Meshify C
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Cooler Master MasterBox TD500
If you have any opinions about these cases, or suggestions, I would love to hear them. Air flow is super important for me.
My build: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/harmonicdevel/saved/#view=JX9Dxr
I'm really confused about fan voltages, DC, and PWM. As far as I can tell, based on my mobo manual (Page 34 always), the only fan header that supports PWM is the CPU fan header, and the header supplies up to 12V to the CPU fan. The mobo supports 4 additional system fans in DC mode with an unspecified voltage. All the manual says is that the pins for the system fans, in order, are: (Ground, Voltage Control, Sense, NC). I gather the NC is not connected, which is where the speed control would be in PWM. The Sense does something, the Voltage Control is how I control the fan speed, and Ground is Ground. Oddly enough, I definitely set the system fans to PWM mode as it was an option in BIOS, but I'm guessing that doesn't actually do anything.
Some of the manuals and instructions provided for these cases mention specific voltages, for example, the P400a manual says (top left box) to connect something to something else? for "DIGITAL-RGB Products" and says that it's optional to connect to the motherboard D-RGB Header and shows a header pin schematic....which doesn't match what I see in my mobo manual...it's very confusing. Do I need a special header for this, is the case manual wrong, how is connecting it to mobo optional? Maybe connect directly to PSU? Regardless, it says the D-RGB magic needs a 5V header to connect to, but I have no idea how many volts my headers put out. Is it sufficient to just set the voltage control in BIOS to 5 volts or less and move on? I have MSI command center, and it has literally no information that I can get on this. The Lian Li O11D XL manual is just as confusing, there's literally no voltage information for the Cooler Master TD500, the Thermaltake V200 says 12V fans in the description on Amazon, and it appears that the Meshify C fans take 12V per the manual on page 23.
I am completely confused, and the last thing I want to do is spend money on RGB goodness and burn it all out. I don't have a voltmeter or anything else useful that I could use to measure voltage on my own. Thus, the main questions are
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What voltage does my mobo supply to the system fan headers?
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If it's too much/not enough for provided fans, how do I mitigate that? E.g. set BIOS fan voltage control to max out at 5 volts somehow?"
a simple answer would be appreciated
Okay.
if I used a 9 volt battery or 7.2 volt how many amps should that battery be?
You clearly mean ampere hours.
If it uses 4.5 A when being fed 12 V, then you can assume that with 9 V battery that it will drain roughly \$4.5\text{ A}×\frac{9\text{ V}}{12\text{ V}}=3.375\text{A} = 3375\text{ mA}\$.
Let's assume you will run it for 15 minutes, then you will need a 9 V battery with at least \$3375\text{ mA}×\frac{15\text{ min}}{60\text{ min}}=843.75\text{ mAh}\$.
Considering that you will be discharging it at 4 times the capacity, then I'd aim for a little bit higher capacity, say 2000 mAh or even higher, or put several 9V batteries in parallel. Because high discharge (several amperes) will lower the capacity.
How do volts effect amps in motors?
If you increase the voltage, then the ampere will also increase.
Computer fans increase load current with voltage above the start threshold.
Most PC fans are <= 5W so I suspect you have an error in the decimal place.

from the red graph line I expect your case fan is identical to this with 450mA at 12V and 300mA at 9V