Most Pacific Energy Stoves are non-catalytic steel box stoves with secondary combustion, built in shielding, and a "neat trick" up their sleeve that helps slow down the burn a bit on the front end, extending it slightly longer than competing non-cat stoves. They do also have their Alderlea series, which is what I think most people would recommend if going with this brand, as that adds a very heavy cast iron jacket to the same proven burn system. The additional shielding and thermal mass effect make for a more comfortable heating experience. The Alderlea T5 LE would be the same as the Super LE internally, but adds a heap of beautiful iron. Pacific Energy non-cat stoves are arguably the best non-cat stoves on the market. Most people who buy them who know what it is and why they are buying it, are very happy with their stoves. Expect another 40 years of service from such a stove like your old Fisher. Price on these stoves is ~$2-3K+ for the raw stove, which is on the high end of non-cat stoves, and since they do not qualify for the 30% tax rebate in the USA, this can make them as expensive to buy as more efficient, longer burning, catalytic stove options after the rebate is taken. The rebate requires 2020 emissions and 75% or better HHV efficiency. Most of the PE stoves fall in the ~71-74% range. I have a little trouble rationalizing the steel-only PE stoves knowing their are Englander and Drolet brand stoves for less money that offer similar overall performance and burn characteristics. A ~2ft^3 non-cat PE stove, will produce vigorous flaming combustion for 2-3 hours, followed by 4-6 hours of coaling depending on fuel type and burn rate settings. Expect the bulk of heat energy from a load of wood to be released in the first 3 hours or so, then fairly rapid stove cool-down. This is about what you should expect from most non-cat steel stoves. An iron jacketed version will soften the peak in output and carry more of that heat into hours 3-5. This type of stove aligns well to the heating needs of less insulated or larger homes, with 3-6 reloads per 24 hours required for use as a primary heat source. Blaze King stoves use a bi-metalic spring mechanism that provides thermostatic-like control of the burn rate. These stoves are engineered around the presumption of a catalyst being used heavily for the combustion of wood gases. By burning the wood gases in a catalyst, rather than with visible flames, the stove can support much lower combustion rates while still producing low emissions and high efficiency. This makes it possible to "size up" to a larger stove without overheating the house, because the larger stove size just becomes a larger fuel tank for longer burn cycles. I would cross-shop a 3 ft^3 BK stove like their 30.2 series and Princess, with 1.5-2ft^3 non-cat stoves. Catalytic and Hybrid stoves are not as simple to operate and maintain as non-cat stoves. They do require that the catalyst be bypassed and engaged manually at appropriate times. The catalyst requires occasional cleaning and will have to be replaced every 15-25 cord of wood give or take depending on the stove and how it is used. Like the PE stoves, most people who buy BK stoves who know what it is and why they are buying it, are very happy with their stoves. These are arguably the most utilitarian catalytic stoves on the market, known for lasting decades when cared for. These stoves are expensive, but qualify for the tax rebate, so the final install cost may not be much different than a PE stoves. BK stoves do not contain secondary combustion tubes, and place their catalyst somewhat "front and center" of the combustion "path" - this means that these stoves are well optimized for low to medium heat output. Where a PE or Drolet or Englander stove can be cranked up to rigorous output of 60-80K BTU/hr with roaring secondary combustion, BK stoves aren't really designed to do this. The maximum output of most BK stoves is around 30-50K BTU/hr. A ~3ft^3 BK stove, can produce steady flaming combustion for 3-4 hours, followed by 6-8+ hours of coaling, or can be "choked down" to produce little to no visible flaming, providing steady low heat output around 10-15K BTU/hr over the course of 16-24 hours or so. This type of stove aligns well to the heating needs of well insulated small to medium size homes, well optimized for 1-3 fuel reloads per 24 hours as a primary heater. A popular alternative to the Blaze King approach, are Catalytic and Hybrid soapstone stoves, which offer substantial thermal mass as an alternative to the thermostatic burn rate control. These stoves don't "regulate" their burn as tightly as a BK stove, but are well suited to heat demands in-between the 2 applications/situations described above like a well insulated large home, requiring 2-4 fuel reloads per 24 hours as a primary heater, while also being well suited to burning ambiance fires that don't chase you out of the house, but spread out the heat over many hours even after the flames have died down. Woodstock and Hearthstone are the big players in this space if you want to check out those options. I burn in a Hearthstone Mansfield, which is a great stove for a corner install application like yours. I'm sure your stove company/sweep already mentioned it, but you need ember protection and shouldn't be using a heat "reclaimer" on the chimney system. More on reddit.com

Google says that is about $7k USD right now: I bought and self-installed a Woodstock Soapstone Ideal Steel two years ago. Built the hearth and chimney myself too. Took me days of hard work, was scarey/risky bc I have a very steep pitch to my roof, and moving that stove took a very real physical toll on me. In the end, I spend just under $5k USD. Only considering the increase in commodity prices, and $9k Canadian seems like a very fair deal! (I believe Woodstock has since raised their price $300 and Class A chimney has surely gone up, too.) The peace of mind you'll have knowing your stove has been properly and professionally is worth the cost. And finally, there is the satisfaction of watching someone else muscle that stove into place... More on reddit.com

Phew, lot to unpack here. I dont have a lot of time this moment, but Ill start and hope someone picks up. From the bottom- Yes thats the sounds if expanding metal, nothing to worry about. Your stove doesn’t necessarily need to run wide open to keep clean, you goal is to control the buildup, never “burn it off”. You just want your flue gasses hot enough so they do not cool to under 250 before the reach the exit of the chimney. Because thats when creosote happens. Thats why ideally you never want to run your stove under 300. But smoldering happens if its a primary heat and overnight burns, this is why you clean your chimney every single season, and try to check it once or twice mid season if you can. This will also give you “feedback” on how well your operating your stove. If you check it midwinter and there is a ton of creosote, to where it absolutely needs a sweep mid season, then your burning wrong, and need to adjust your process. Cold start ups are kinda where you get to learn how your stove performs best. On cold startups I like to get my stove all the way to 450-500 degrees, then take it down about halfway at first, give it some time to adjust again based on my needs at the time. More on reddit.com

Classic LE?

If so... seems like a lot of money for a non-catalytic stove that probably won't qualify for the tax credit anymore. Other than the value proposition being questionable, PE stoves are well made and well regarded.

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