I have recently decided to take the plunge into the sim racing world after finally saving enough money to buy a rig. I tried looking at the buyers guide, but it seems it hasnt been updated in a while (and the wheel guide is still under construction).
I am looking to play mainly AC, F1 (League Racing) and also (finally) get into iRacing. I am not looking for a full manual setup with a stick + handbrake e.t.c.
I was wondering if people had any specific recommendations for a setup within a budget of $2k USD? I was thinking:
DD Wheel Base (~15 Nm seems like the sweet spot)
F1-Style Racing Wheel (something like the MOZA GS GT Wheel, or similar)
Load Cell Pedals
Racing seat/Cockpit
Although this is my first step into the field of sim racing, I have done racing IRL before, and hence I am hoping for a setup which is more for intermediate-advanced driving experience. I would like to buy something which doesnt leave me having to upgrade a year or so down the line.
If my budget is too low for the setup I am gunning for, how much more would you say I should save up? Thanks in advance for the help!
Hello. I have been wanting to set up a rig for a really long time and now is finally the time I can actually do so. PC is ready, but I need your help in choosing the rest of the parts.
I am on both PC and PS4. I want to play on PC, but a console support is definitely a plus. My PC specs: GPU: RTX 4090 CPU: i7-12700 RAM: 16GB DDR4 3200MHz
Parts I am looking to invest in: Wheelbase and wheel Cockpit (preferably with a monitor mount) Pedals Monitor/s (not sure if only one or three)
A complete setup is what I am looking for. Not necessarily an all in one package, but compatibility is a must.
I want this to be a long term investment, so I do not mind spending more money if it is worth it. It has been a interest of mine for a really long time, and I worked really hard for it. Your help will be greatly appreciated.
Edit: Price can range between $3,000 and $4,000.
Videos
I'm looking into getting a PC for sim racing. I've had a console forever and I really want to get a PC so that I can get iracing. Any recommendations that are reasonably priced? I'd say my budget is around $1200-$1800 USD. I'd rather not build it myself but if it comes down to it I can. Any and all recommendations are appreciated!
I know it's not as good as a dedicated rig, but I don't have anywhere to setup a dedicated rig in my little 1 bedroom house. My desk is actually setup in my dining room because it's literally the only place it can go lol. So I decided to go with a Playseat Challenge and a Logitech G920. I had a G27 years ago that I used to just clamp to my desk when I lived with my parents and this setup is miles better than that old setup. Very pleased with it so far for being less than $600. The monitor arm was also a very nice addition so I can move the screen closer to me when I set up the playseat.
Hello everyone,
after many years of using controllers, I'm currently thinking about getting a sim racing setup.
For me, the first thing is to have a reasonable setup if I want to play racing games. These are currently mainly various F1 games (current and retro) as well as Forza (both PC and Xbox, but the main focus should be the PC) and in the future I would also like to venture into sim racing via games such as Assetto Corsa etc. (which I tended to avoid without a steering wheel; some games are simply not intuitive to drive with a controller ^^)
The only problem is that I don't have enough space. My living room is definitely too full to accommodate a complete, permanently installed rig. I would have to remodel my entire living room to fit it. That's when I came across the Playseat Challenge...mainly because it's foldable and most of the reviews I've found have given it a good score, even in terms of stability. I could easily set it up where my office chair usually stands and with my electrically height-adjustable desk, the screen height wouldn't be a problem either.
To get to the point: I currently have the following setup in mind, which I want to get in the next few weeks/months:
Wheel/Pedals: https://fanatec.com/eu-en/ready2race/csl-dd-f1-esports-premium-bundle-for-pc
Rig/Base: https://www.playseatstore.com/gb/product/playseat-challenge-uk-version
I would probably come out right at my current limit (1k), at least with the current German prices. First of all: Yes, I know that I could get a (much) cheaper start. But my experience has shown: For me, it usually makes more sense to buy something decent straight away, because then I almost always don't have to upgrade at all. And I've loved playing racing games for a decade, so this would definitely pay off for me.
Hence my questions: Does the combination make sense? Or is the bundle completely oversized for the Playseat? Any alternatives? Due to my lack of experience, I can't estimate this at all, and I would be practically the first person in my environment to buy a steering wheel at all. xD
Thanks in advance for any advice!
Hi guys,
I’m looking for some advice on buying a sim racing setup as a birthday present for my boyfriend. He’s been a huge F1 fan for the past two years, watches every race, and loves playing the F1 game on his PlayStation 5. I don’t know much about sim racing gear, so any advice or recommendations from this community would be greatly appreciated!
What he currently has:
PlayStation 5
F1 Game
TV which he connects the PS5 to
Decent-sized monitor setup *Photos attached - not sure if helps*
What I’m looking for:
Budget: <$1000 for the entire setup. I’m thinking about starting without a full cockpit to stay within budget. Obviously, I don’t know much about this, so let me know if my budget is unreasonable or if I need to adjust my expectations.
Components: What’s the most important element to spend the majority of the budget on? Are a shifter and handbrake necessary to buy, or can they be added later? Is a cockpit necessary or can he use his chair/sofa right now
Brands/Models: Are there any popular brands/models (I only know about Logitech) that offer the best value and are most compatible with the PS5?
I really want this to be a special gift that he’ll love and get a lot of use out of. Thank you all in advance for your help and recommendations!
Hello All,
I am a beginner in using racing simulators, but I love racing games like Rally, GT and F1. I have currently a XBox one, and I have been using always the gamepad. Recently, I tried a simulator in a Gaming Event, and I was really surprised how we could be near the reality of driving. As such I decided to build my own Driving Simulator, but with so many options on the market, so many different components, even I did some research, I don´t have enough knowledge to decide on the best option for each component, or when it worth's investing more money because it makes the difference or not. My budget would be around 4000 and 5000 €, to acquire the cockpit, the seat, the steering wheel, the wheel base, pedals and screen.
I know that one of the first decisions is console or PC and even I am aware of some advantages on using a PC I would like to stay for now with the XBOX Console option. Another thing I consider important is the acquisition of components with wide compatibility so that I can continue to upgrade my setup and even use different brands.
- Cockpit: initially I was almost decided to go with ASR-Pro, but then I started to see several references to SimLab P1X and also PlaySeat Sensation PRO. I also saw the Next Level Racing F1-GT from Ferrari Scuderia that is beautiful but I guess the quality is not so good.
- Seat: regarding to seat, I might be wrong but because for now I do not plan to have several seats, I think a GT seat is the more flexible to also drive in Rally and F1 games. For seats I was considering the Sim-Lab Speed 1 Bucket Seat or Sparco - GRID Q but probably there are better options.
- Wheel Base, Steering Wheel and pedals: here I am not sure if I should buy a regular wheel or a f1 type which can also be used for GT. In this area I was thinking in brands like simcube pro, fanatek or moza but not sure about a good quality / price relationship. Here I really need your thoughts because the amount of options is huge.
- Screen: for now I was thinking one large screen like SAMSUNG-49-inch-Odyssey-FreeSync but I am open to better options.
Apologies for this long post but I really appreciate if you could help me choose the right components for my sim racing setup. Thanks.
Ivo
Hi!
Im intrested to get into sim drifting, and i am looking for suggestions to what i should get, basically what is the best bang for your buck.
For my budget, i would like to be as little over 1000 as possible, but if there is no good options at that price point, then ofc i can save up more and get good gear the first time.
Mainly looking for recommendations for the wheel+pedal+sifter and the seat rig. I already have a pc and monitor i can use if i dont end up going straight for the vr route.
Im gonna upgrade the setup as i go, so upgrade-friendly setup is what im looking for🤝🏻
Also what vr glasses would you recommend? (Does not need be included in the budget listed above)
Thanks in advance! -Jasse
Ps. English is not my first language so i hope i didn’t make too many typos🤞🏻
Been wanting to get into sim racing for a while, I built out a pc online for iracing with pretty good options listed in the first two pictures. Talked to computer guy who who my dad knows and he suggested the Dell Optiplex 7060 with an updated graphics card to start because I’m told it would be enough to run sim racing.
I’m new to this and new to the computer / PC world, just looking for opinions, should I just spend the money to get a good pc or just budget build and upgrade later.
Sim wise I think I’m going simagic with the Gt neo wheel, alpha eco wheel base, and the p1000 pedals, would also like opinions on this as well.
Thanks!
Hi everyone, so I just wanted to post this to help a lot of you guys out. Recently and for a little while, I have seen a lot of people posting questions about PCs and what specs that people should build their PCs too. I just wanted to create a generally guide and would be more than happy to mod this every week or 2 to answer question on PCs for people looking to upgrade their current hardware or for people moving over from consoles
For a lot of people, (except maybe us) money doesn’t grow on trees, and we need to pick and choose what we’re going to upgrade. I hope this breakdown will help you guys! Thank you for reading the wall of text that is about to come.
In order will be the things that affect us sim racers the most and options will be presented in each section. I will also do my best to include current prices, but please check websites such as PcPartPicker.com, r/buildapcsales, and r/hardwareswap to find deals or any prices lower than what i’ve written. Each product in this will have links to PcPartPicker to help you guys find current prices.
I can only point you in the general direction, but please find out what is best at the price for you yourself and your needs. Please don’t spend too much unless you do know your goals and your budget.
I also am including cheap peripherals and assuming your own a wheel and the gear to do sim-racing. I will not advertise or comment anything about OS since there are malicious ways to get free windows or cracked versions. Please do you own studying on what option is best for you. If you do want to go the general way. Please add $100 to the end of the build for Windows 10 Home
CPU:
This will be most important if you already have a high class GPU for your needs or sims are lagging. This will especially show when you go to add more cars to a race or add more physical details to the quality settings. For most sims, this will mean that you do need a higher tier CPU like a quad core or higher to be able to take full advantage of sim and not have any stutters or pauses during games. However, this will be the second most important if you are using VR since your GPU will be taxed more than your CPU, or your GPU is not meeting your visual requirements such as Triple monitors or higher refresh rate monitors.
CPUs that are available for less than $130 include
Ryzen 3 1200
Intel i3 8100
These CPUs are very good for single screen monitor users or racers who don’t mind turning down the quality and the amount of AI opponents that are on the track at the same time. Along with that, these CPUs can be run with cheaper lower end motherboards (B450 for Ryzen and B360/H370 for Intel) and include a stock cooler to be able to use immediately. But for around $200, you can have
Ryzen 5 2600
Ryzen 7 1700
Ryzen 7 1700x (Please note you do need to buy a cooler since one is not included)
Intel i5 8400,
These CPUs are generally going to satisfy most mid level sim racers and these CPUs can take VR and triple screens well. All of these CPUs will have a stock cooler except the 1700x which will need it’s own cooler. Along with that, these CPUs can be run on mid to lower end board (b450/x470 for AMD and b360/H370 for Intel) and will provide the best value per dollar spent. These CPUs can do recording and some video editing for the casual user, but professionals and enthusiasts will want to look at the higher end. (I own a Ryzen 5 1600 and can handle very well with WMR so just a little input). Now for the FU CPUs that cost a lot of money, but show for it. These CPUs include
Intel i7 9700k/8700k
Intel i9 9900k
Ryzen 7 2700/2700x
Threadripper line from AMD
Now these are very extreme for sim-racing and I would highly recommend starting at the mid-range and then working up or down based on your budget and the needs and desires you have for sim racing. These CPUs yes will be able to include as many cars as your track can hold, but is it really necessary for what you’re doing? That is up to you to decide. These CPUs will need their own cooling and their own respective motherboard chipset to be able to function at its intended performance. (Z370 for the 8700k and Z390 for the 9900k and X470 for Ryzen and X399 for threadripper). These high end CPUs can also stream with ease and be able to record alongside playing with ease. Also for user who will edit their videos on the same computer, these CPUs will be able to easily render footage of sim racing or any other type of footage.
GPU:
The GPU outside of the CPU is going to be the most important factor to your ability to sim race. A lot of users will be choosing their GPUs according to these factors,
Screen Resolution
Number of Monitors
Refresh Rate
Quality settings
Starting with the budget GPUs, these are going to be solid for 1080p or lower sim racing and will be good for a single monitor setup,
GTX 1050 (This card will struggle in rFactor 2 or any game that requires VRAM higher than 2gb)
GTX 1050Ti/GTX 1060 3gb (A GTX 970 or 980 if you want to go used)
RX 570(RX 470 or RX 480/580 is a good option also if you are willing to go used)
These will normally get you around 50-70fps on medium and if you keep the resolution at or below 1080p. Along with that, some of these GPUs are NOT VR compatible (GTX 1050/1050Ti or the RX 470/570). They may claim to be, but the fps will be locked at 45 compared to the recommended 90fps. I would recommend if you have one of these GPUs already to hold on and wait to make a significant upgrade, since the higher the tier of GPU, the longer it’ll last for your needs. The next step up would be the start of the mid tier to higher end GPUs, These GPUs can comfortably run VR and 1080p triple monitor setups. Please note I say comfortably in a general case and you will need to do some more digging based on your use case. But the main members of the mid tier GPU market include
RTX 2060/2070 (GTX 1070,1070Ti, and 1080 on the used market)
RX Vega 56/64
These cards are able to do what most racers will ask at 1080p triple or VR usage. With these GPUs, you cannot go wrong with any of the ones you choose, so long as it fits your budget. Now for the FU tier of GPUs, these are if you would like to do 1440p triple or VR at 90fps constant with no dips below 90fps, and these GPUs are,
RTX 2080
RTX 2080Ti
GTX Titan
Radeon VII
These cards are what are going to help you have a butter smooth VR experience and be able to achieve ultimate sim-racing. (Not really tbh cause driver skill >). Bu this will remove any issues of any stutters or lag.
RAM:
When looking at RAM, All you need to do is look for the capacity and the speed. For Ryzen, it’ll be more important to be able to have a higher speed RAM such as 3000mhz or 3200mhz. Outside of that, you will be mainly paying for the looks of the RAM rather than any additional purchase. Some recommended sets of RAM include
Crucial
Corsair
Gskill
But any set of RAM will work as long as your motherboard supports the speed of your RAM. Many motherboard manufacturers will actually write out lists of RAM that is compatible for the motherboard that you are going to be installing it to. Overclocking RAM is another topic, but can be done to increase the speed and be able to improve performance especially on Ryzen, but intel builders will not be worrying as much since speed is not a huge improvement. That said, her is the general guidelines if you are looking to purchase RAM
8 If you’re on a budget and close all other task (Will normally be between $40-70 US depending on model and speed)
16 if you have the budget and you do any recording or video work (Will normally be between $90-140 US depending on model and speed)
32 is overkill unless you are doing professional video editing, rendering, or 3d modeling (Will normally be between $160-220 US depending on model and speed)
Motherboard:
For most people, the motherboard is where you’re gonna be connecting everything to. It has the USB ports to connect your wheel and VR headset and along with that, all of your components connect to it in some way, shape, or form. But as long as you choose the motherboard that has enough USB ports and is compatible with your CPU should be fine. I did briefly mention chipsets when talking about CPUs, but I will go over them again. Below are going to be motherboard chipsets based on the CPU you have
Ryzen (B450/X470)
Kaby-Lake refresh (aka 9xxx series from Intel) (Z390)
Threadripper (X399)
Kaby-lake (Z370)
After you have found the chipset that is compatible for your motherboard, you will need to find a motherboard according to your needs. USB ports, Sata 6gb, NVME, and other features will depend on the motherboard you purchase. Generally most motherboards will have standard features, but some will have more or less USB ports and other features will vary too. Please do research based on your needs and you will certainly find a motherboard that suits your needs the best. Please note, that the motherboard will come in 3 general sizes.
mITX
mATX
ATX
Generally, starting at mini ITX (mITX), you will have only one slot for your graphics card and limited usb ports. As you go up the size ladder, more ports and expansion will generally be provided. Budget motherboards will be generally ATX or mATX. Please do note that will info will be needed later for choosing your case.
Storage:
Storage isn’t going to affect any performance in terms of FPS. But it will affect boot and loads times into games and windows. Generally you would go SSD (Solid State Drive) first and then install an HDD (hard drive). But in sim racing, you will generally need the storage for games and mods, and I’m assuming you want more FPS than a faster loading game. If this is the case, you will be able to just buy the hard drive first and then install an ssd at a later point. But if you are looking for an ssd first. You may run into space issues and then be forced to add in more storage. Along with that, if you are editing videos, you will want more than 1Tb of storage to store all that footage. Some very good ssd and hdd brands are
Samsung
Crucial
Adata
Sandisk
Intel
TL:DR
SSD First
HDD Second
PSU: aka Power Supply
Now this is where you power up your whole system. A nice PSU will keep your system quiet, and be able to remove cables to make your system nicer looking. This will not improve any performance, but will improve aesthetics and noise. A general guideline is if it’s 80+ or over, it’ll be a good PSU, after that, it doesn’t matter after that. Some general recommendations for brands are
Corsair
EVGA
Seasonic
Other considerations are if it’s
Modular (helps remove cables to look nicer)
80+ Rating (Generally but all the time, the higher the tier, the nicer and more feature packed the PSU is)
TL:DR
80+ Rating and PSU quality > aesthetics
Case:
Honestly, this won’t matter too much, pick a case with good airflow unless you are deciding between a nicer case and one of the parts above. The please go for one of the parts above. Other than that, pick a case with the motherboard compatibility of your size motherboard and has the looks you desire. Some recommended manufacturers for cases include
Corsair
NZXT
Phanteks
Silverstone
Fractal Design
TL:DR Skimp if you are looking for more performance and don’t care for looks, but don’t go too bottom of the barrel since airflow will be non-existent and heat up your parts
Peripherals:
This is your keyboards, speakers, and mice. These parts will not affect your sim experience, but will be necessary for using your computer. Go as cheap as you want if it means you improve your actual PC, or reuse some if you have any lying around. Mechanical keyboards and gaming mice are not necessary, but can be worthwhile. I’ve had my Corsair Strafe and M65 RGB since release about 4 years and is still going strong for me. But if you want the most powerful computer, these will not matter
Alright! So after going through all of that, I hope that helped you decide what you need to do to have a cheap and or expensive gaming desktop. I just want to say thank you for reading this and I hope I helped you steer yourself in the right direction. All of the brands I listed are based on general experience and I was never paid to say anything. I’m a 20 year old college student who bought all of his stuff used and use a sketchy TMX wheel with pedals that move around and a WMR headset I bought off craigslist at night. But below I have attached some PC build with the parts I mentioned above.
Example build:
$500
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vq6wfH
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/vq6wfH/by_merchant/
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 3 1200 3.1 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($94.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M-HDV Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($56.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill - Aegis 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($48.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Team - L5 LITE 3D 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($54.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: PowerColor - Radeon RX 580 8 GB Red Devil Video Card ($194.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Rosewill - FBM-X1 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($26.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: EVGA - BQ 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($44.11 @ Monoprice)
Keyboard: Logitech - MK120 Wired Slim Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($14.34 @ OutletPC)
Total: $535.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-01-25 17:02 EST-0500
$950 AMD
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/XP69ZR
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/XP69ZR/by_merchant/
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($164.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($83.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Team - Vulcan 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Team - L5 LITE 3D 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($54.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital - AV-GP 2 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.50 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Sapphire - Radeon RX VEGA 64 8 GB Video Card ($399.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair - Carbide Series 88R MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA - BQ 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($44.11 @ Monoprice)
Keyboard: Logitech - MK120 Wired Slim Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($14.34 @ OutletPC)
Total: $954.68
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-01-25 17:04 EST-0500
| **Total** | **$954.68**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2019-01-25 16:52 EST-0500 |
$1000 Intel
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ghPCnH
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ghPCnH/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8 GHz 6-Core Processor ($193.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI - B360M PRO-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($65.99 @ B&H)
Memory: G.Skill - NT Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Team - L5 LITE 3D 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($54.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital - AV-GP 2 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.50 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8 GB ARMOR Video Card
Case: Thermaltake - Versa H15 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($39.98 @ Newegg Business)
Power Supply: EVGA - BQ 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($44.11 @ Monoprice)
Keyboard: Logitech - MK120 Wired Slim Keyboard w/Optical Mouse ($14.34 @ OutletPC)
Total: $550.69
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-01-25 17:03 EST-0500
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| **Total** | **$550.69**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2019-01-25 16:52 EST-0500 |
TL:DR
9900K > Ryzen 7 2700/x > Ryzen 5 2600 > Ryzen 3 1200
RTX 2080Ti > RTX 2070 > RTX 2060 or RX Vega 64 / RX 570/580
See individual component section for any further comparisons
Edit #1: formatted the example builds based on budget
Edit #2 As of this edit, the 1070Ti is not available, please use the RX Vega 64 or RTX 2060 in its place
I’m hoping to race a Radical SR1 next season as my introduction to motorsport. Im currently getting out on track every two weeks on average. I’d like to spend 6 hours on a sim between track sessions.
I’d like to spend time in a Radical (I appreciate games may not have the SR1). Should I focus on driving as close to my Radical as possible, or should I be aiming to drive many different cars, if I’m hoping to improve as a driver?
I run my own business, and I’m lucky enough to be able to afford a decent sim, but I don’t want to waste money only for the sake of it.
In my mind, there are the following components for considerations:
-
Wheel (direct drive, but how much force needed? 10/20/30Nm) Looks like Fanatec Podium DD2 is one of the best?
-
Shifter. Need paddles. Would maybe be nice to have a sequential too for other car types?
-
Pedals. I’ve heard good things about Heusinkveld Sim Pedals Ultimate. Any others which are better?
-
Rig, seat. No idea what to get here
-
VR vs Screens. Should I get both? Do pros prefer VR or screens?
-
Accessories / mounts / clamps etc. How do I make sure I’ve got everything I need?
-
Software. iracing, project cars 2, F1 2019 are the games I’m aware of. Are there any others worth considering?
-
Motion. The APEX5 GTS has roll, pitch, yaw, surge, sway. This is where it looks to get expensive. I’d like to know which motion systems are really worth it? There are basic systems that are 30x cheaper (such as NEXT LEVEL Racing Motion Platform V3). What is the difference? Which motions make a huge difference to how real the sim feels, and which motions make barely any difference? Looks like SimCraft.com have a selection ranging from 20k to 75k. Has anyone experience with these? Would driving these sims make you a better driver compared to a setup which costs 5k-10k?
-
Is there anything else I’m missing?
Any help (in full or in part) would be appreciated!
Do you want to spend most of your time fiddling with software and hardware, getting things to work, figuring out why they aren't working? Or would you rather just have something that works first time and lets you practise race craft?
I'm pretty sure it's the latter, right?
Just get a Fanatec DD wheel, Clubsport V3 pedals, a mid-range rig to put them in and a single 40-inch screen. I'd avoid triple screens for now, because you might decide that VR is actually better. This setup will give you 95% as good an experience as any sim-racing setup, and nothing you spend on top of this will actually be better for learning real-life racing skills.
It just won't. Sim racing is good for learning tracks, and gaining experience in the business of driving as fast as possible with other cars around you. It's *never* going to feel like an actual car, there's no point in going to motion rigs and other expensive equipment when you actually have a race car available to you.
Get Assetto Corsa, mostly because of the vast array of modded tracks and cars available. There's a good chance of finding versions of any car you are going to drive, and any track you are going to race at. It's also got a pretty busy online racing scene, and use something like SRS to get into active leagues where you are racing people and not just computer cars.
Maybe after a while of this, you'll decide you *do* want to spend more. That's fine, you haven't spent much so far so it's not like you've wasted anything. Go wild and get more complex stuff. You'll know what you are doing by then.
I dont think motion rigs would help much over static rigs when practice for real life racing.
For instance, Aston Marting factory driver Nicki Thiim frequently streams his sim racing. Both for fun but also when he practices for le mans etc. He uses a static rig.
And there is a video on youtube where formula 1 driver Lando Norris is showcasing his sim racing room and he also uses static rigs.
And from what i have seen the sims used by formula one teams are typically a static set-up with a super wide projector.
There are a couple old videos of a rig mounted to a huge industrial robot arm which supposedly has been utilized by some f1 team as a set-up/training sim but im not to sure that's actually the case. Every time i have seen some behind the scenes footage they are in a static 1:1 cockpit racing in front of a curved projector.
For screens im not to sure. I would say VR but dont go in to it thinking its gonna be like looking out of a helmet. When you see videos of VR its a lot clearer than when you have the set on you in real life. But they do offer immersion on a whole new level so its worth it in the end any way.
I personally have both and i made the real switch to VR now with the higher resolution VR sets. i couldnt stand first generation vive but the WMR pushed it ahead of my monitors.
Plus vr rigs take up a whole lot less room than a triple monitor set-up which makes a world of difference when placing it in your living space.
I would advice you to go for a 80/20 rig and build your way up from it. The extruded aluminum is basically standardized so you dont have to rely on one particular company for upgrades.
something from sim-labs should last you forever and you can easily customize it by purchasing your own 80/20 profile and brackets if you need to personalize it.
As for the actual hardware. If i were in your shoes i would go for the fanatec eco system. I havent tested their DD wheel range but what i gather from internet it matches the OSW wheels in quality/feel and doesn't cost significantly more comparing nm per dollar. Especially when you consider the price point and convenience of fanatecs range of truly plug-and-play wheels with paddles, button boxes and quick release systems included. It just seems so convenient.
As for pedals i would simply go with the fanatec offerings if you choose to go with them for the wheel-base (out of convenience). i personally have the v3 inverted but i think the regular ones are better value for money and i think the CSL Elite Pedals with the load cell is an even better option honestly. Most people who have them swear by them.
From what i can gather (and i might be wrong on this one). The only thing you really get by going for more expensive pedal options efter getting a set with load cell brakes are more realistic clutch pedal mechanics and more adjustment on the gas pedal. I have a hard time seeing where you get a return on the fairly large price difference.
As for shifter you get paddles from the box if you go the fanatec route. And i wouldnt get a separate shifter right away. Thats just for immersion rather than performance. And they are offered in such a wide range i would rather do some actual racing before deciding what to get and what price-range to settle for.
Obviously it seems you have a large budget but there are a lot of diminishing returns on sim-racing equipment. The upper echelon price ranges are for people who spend their money on sim-racing realism as a hobby rather than something to make them faster.
Hey everyone! I’ve been dying for a sim racing set up for years now. I just graduated with my masters and can finally afford to start a basic set up! I know that it’s A very cheap and basic set up but would I’ve been told it would be good to start with. Any thoughts/recommendations/suggestions would be appreciated!
Hey everyone,
I'm new to the world of sim racing and looking to set up a complete simulator. From wheels and pedals to the seat and assembly base, what complete setup would you recommend within a budget of $1,000 USD? I'd appreciate any advice or suggestions on a comprehensive setup within this budget range. Thanks in advance!
Hey there. New to the racing sim world. Just got my first set up for my pc. Wondering what games you guys would recommend I play first and what’s the most popular online community right now. Thanks guys !
If you want to play online, iRacing is probably the best, although not the most cost-effective. Rfactor 2 is solid as well, as well as Assetto Corsa and Assetto Corsa Competizione if you LFM.
i'd say Assetto Corsa is your most important buy just because it's dirt, dirt cheap and modable to no end.
As soon you have that set up and ready just try everything that's appealing and don't care if it's a true sim or not. (Try wreckfest on a wheel for instance, it's hilarious fun) and all race games you once enjoyed, try them with a wheel, sometimes it'll be fun, sometimes it'll be crap.
Fof the best sim games I honnestly only ever played AC and ACC and those are great! I've heard good things from all the other sims too but they guys here will tell you way more about those.
Sorry if this is a really dumb question...
I have been sim racing for about 1.5 years now and am going to be getting a dedicated cockpit / set up in the next couple of months. However, I also use my PC to play other games and was wondering if any of you, and if so, how do you switch between the standard desk gaming setup and your racing set up easily / quickly. Thanks for the help!
I’ve been lurking in this sub reddit for awhile, and one thing I always see on the front page of it: “What wheel do I buy?” To answer them, I devoted a bit lot of time to making an all-in-on guide. I know I’m not the first to address this, and I know there are other wheel guides that have been posted before. However, the ones I’ve seen are either outdated or lack the best options. So I figured “hey, why don’t I do something about it?” So, here we go. If someone asks what to buy in the future, give them a link to this post.
This post has been separated into 4 parts due to its size (reddit's character limit). The additional posts are linked at the bottom. This is for more than just wheels; whether you're looking for new pedals or a motion cockpit, you're in the right place.
Archived But Still Alive and Moved Somewhere Else
Since this post is over 6 months old, it has been archived by reddit, and can no longer be commented on nor voted on. However, I can still edit it... which is weird for it being "archived," but this does mean that I can still add to or fix this post at will. I can still keep this post updated, so let me know if there's any new noteworthy products to add. You can either go to the second post, part 2 (linked at the bottom), and leave a comment there, or PM me directly. Thank you all for taking the time to read something that I have poured many hours of research any typing into, and please read all of the listings and consider what needs you're looking to meet before making a purchase.
February 2018 - Yep, still going.
January 2019 - The active Buyer's Guide has long since moved to the Wiki. This post will no longer be updated.
Advanced Update, Part 1
Information about the update can be found here
Unreleased, as of 18 February 2018
[None]
Part One: The Wheels
The heart of sim racing (the games are the brain or something, I guess), this is where you start if you want to delve into the world of virtual motorsports… and is probably the reason you’re even in this post. There’s a wheel for every budget, so whether you’re a budget gamer or your pockets are deep enough for you to stand in, you’ll find something to enjoy.
I've tried to include all widely relevant wheels, at least one on each platform. However, considerably older wheels that are no longer produced and/or have since been replaced by a successor, such as the Thrustmaster T100 or the Logitech G25, are not included.
The ranges are mainly based on retail price range, but as many veteran sim racers will tell you, you might be able to find a used wheel for significantly cheaper on eBay and/or Amazon, and Amazon is probably having a sale on any racing wheel they carry anyway. All the prices are in USD.
The console that each wheel is natively compatible with will be listed, but keep in mind that every wheel is compatible with PC. Thus, the only time PC will be listed is if the wheel is PC-only. Mac compatible wheels will also be listed as such, due to the limited number of options.
Entry Level, $100 - Very basic wheels for people who just want to give a wheel a try without investing too much into it, or want to give their kids early driving lessons. These wheels do not have force feedback, cannot be hard mounted (uses a clamp system or suction cups), and have a very low turning radius. If you already know you’re interested in at least semi-serious sim racing, skip this section.
Hori Racing Wheel Apex
-
11" wheel
-
Plastic frame with full rubber wrapping, plastic shifters
-
Fourteen buttons and D-Pad
-
270° rotation
-
16-bit resolution (65,536 steps)
-
Bungie-centering
-
Incompatible with pedal and shifter upgrades
-
PS3, PS4
Hori Racing Wheel Overdrive
-
11" wheel
-
Plastic frame with full rubber wrapping, plastic shifters
-
Fourteen buttons and D-pad
-
270° rotation
-
16-bit resolution (65,536 steps)
-
Bungie-centering
-
Incompatible with pedal and shifter upgrades
-
Xbox One
Thrustmaster Ferrari 458 Spider
-
11" wheel
-
Plastic wheel, plastic shifters
-
Nine buttons, 5-way dial, and D-pad
-
240° rotation
-
Unknown Resolution
-
Bungie-centering
-
Compatible with a pedal upgrade, but not a shifter add-on
-
Xbox One
Thrustmaster T80
-
11" wheel
-
Plastic wheel, plastic shifters
-
Eleven buttons and D-pad
-
270° rotation
-
Unknown Resolution
-
Bungie-centering
-
Compatible with pedal upgrade, but not a shifter add-on
-
PS3, PS4
Basic/Budget, $200 - $250 - This is where the real fun begins. These wheels may be twice the price of entry-level wheels, but these are far, far better; this is the beginning of the force feedback (FFB) wheels. These bases generally cannot be hard mounted, and do not have interchangeable wheels, but aren’t too far behind their somewhat more expensive siblings in terms of quality.
Forza Motorsport CSR - One of the only Multiplatform wheels, in terms of consoles, the only hard-mountable wheel in the Budget wheels section, and probably the best FFB wheel compatible with the Xbox 360. That being said, it has since been discontinued, so even though its retail value is $250, it's actual price varies wildly, if you can find one.
-
11" wheel
-
Plastic frame with alcantera grips, metal shifters
-
Eight buttons and 8-way analog stick
-
900° rotation
-
12-bit resolution (4096 steps)
-
Brushed motor
-
Belt system
-
Torque Unknown
-
Compatible with pedal upgrade and shifter add-on
-
PS3, Xbox 360
Logitech Driving Force GT - Added due to overwhelmingly popular demand, despite its age. It's no longer produced and has to be purchased second-hand, so the price range varies wildly.
-
11" wheel
-
Plastic frame with rubber grips, plastic shifter
-
Four buttons, 24-position dial, and D-pad
-
900° rotation
-
Resolution Unknown
-
Brushed motor
-
Helical Gear system
-
2.5 Nm torque†1
-
Compatible with pedal upgrade, comes with built-in sequential shifter
-
PS2, PS3
Thrustmaster T150 - Comes in two flavors, the standard T150 and the T150 Pro (comes with the T3PA pedals instead of the standard Thrustmaster 2-pedal base).
-
11" wheel
-
Plastic frame with rubber grips, metal shifters
-
9 buttons on rim, 3 buttons on base, and D-pad
-
1080° rotation
-
12-bit resolution (4096 steps)
-
Brushed motor
-
Belt/Gear-Hybrid system
-
Torque Unknown
-
Compatible with pedal upgrade and shifter add-on
-
PS3, PS4
Thrustmaster TMX - Comes in two flavors, the standard TMX and the TMX Pro (comes with the T3PA pedals instead of the standard Thrustmaster 2-pedal base).
-
11" wheel
-
Plastic frame with rubber grips, metal shifters
-
Ten buttons and D-pad
-
900° rotation
-
12-bit resolution (4096 steps)
-
Brushed motor
-
Belt/Gear-Hybrid system
-
Torque Unknown
-
Compatible with pedal upgrade and shifter add-on
-
Xbox One
Standard, $400 - $600†2 - Here's where you go for the serious wheel, some of the best options on the market. This area consists of the most popular wheels, and arguably have the best bang-for-your-buck. These wheels can be hard mounted, and have stronger force feedback than the budget wheels.
Logitech G27 - Generally should be replaced by the G29, but it was too popular to not add to the list. Another wheel that is no longer produced, so its actual price varies wildly (pro-tip, those $900 listings on Amazon are total scams, try to pick this up for $200 or less).
-
11" unremovable wheel
-
Metal frame with full leather wrapping, metal wheel shifters, plastic shifter
-
Six buttons on rim, eight buttons on shifter,
-
900° rotation
-
16-bit (65,536 steps) wheel resolution, 8-bit (256 steps) pedal resolution
-
Brushed motor
-
Helical Gear system
-
2.3 Nm of torque†1
-
Compatible with shifter add-on
-
PS2, PS3
Logitech G29
-
11" unremovable wheel
-
Metal frame with full leather wrapping, metal wheel shifters
-
Fourteen buttons, 24-way dial, and D-pad
-
900° rotation
-
16-bit (65,536 steps) wheel resolution, 8-bit (256 steps) pedal resolution
-
Brushed motor
-
Helical Gear system
-
2.1 Nm of torque†1
-
Compatible with shifter add-on
-
PS3, PS4, Mac
Logitech G920
-
11" unremovable wheel
-
metal frame with full leather wrapping
-
Eight buttons and D-pad
-
900° rotation
-
16-bit (65,536 steps) wheel resolution, 8-bit (256 steps) pedal resolution
-
Brushed motor
-
Helical Gear system
-
2.2 Nm of torque†1
-
Compatible with shifter add-on
-
Xbox One, Mac
Thrustmaster T500 - Has technically been replaced by the T300, but is still very popular. It is not natively PS4 compatible (cannot be used to navigate the PS4 menus), but you can use it in-game on the PS4 (it's even listed in the settings of Gran Turismo Sport).
-
12" default wheel, interchangable (other optional wheels are 11")
-
1080° rotation
-
16-bit resolution (65,536 steps)
-
Brushed motor
-
belt-driven system
-
4.4 Nm torque†1
-
Compatible with pedal change and shifter add-on, although already comes with T3PA Pro pedals
-
PS3
Thrustmaster TX - Comes in two versions: TX 458 Italia Edition (the standard version, somewhat ironically), and the TX Leather Edition (features a unique, leather-bounded wheel and T3PA pedal set).
-
11" default wheel, interchangable (optional Alcantera wheel is 12")
-
900° rotation
-
16-bit resolution (65,536 steps)
-
Brushless motor
-
belt-driven system
-
Torque Unknown
-
Compatible with pedal upgrade and shifter add-on
-
Xbox One
Thrustmaster T300 - comes in a variety of kits: T300RS (Standard set), T300 GT Edition (Gran Turismo branded wheel and T3PA-based pedal set), and the Alcantera Edition (comes with Ferrari 599XX EVO replica wheel and T3PA pedal set).
-
11" default wheel, interchangable (optional Alcantera wheel is 12")
-
1080° rotation
-
16-bit resolution (65,536 steps)
-
Brushless motor
-
belt-driven system
-
Torque Unknown
-
Compatible with pedal upgrade and shifter add-on
-
PS3, PS4
Thrustmaster TS-PC Racer - A more powerful, PC-only version of the T300. Unlike the other Thrustmaster wheels, it comes with a GT/F1 style wheel as standard and does not include pedals.
-
11" default wheel, interchangable (optional Alcantera wheel is 12")
-
1080° rotation
-
16-bit resolution (65,536 steps)
-
Brushless motor
-
belt-driven system
-
Torque Unknown
-
Compatible with shifter add-on, pedals sold separately
-
PC
Thrustmaster TS-XW Racer - A second version of the TS-PC. For only $50 more than the original version, it comes with a T3PA pedal set, red accents, and most notably, a Sparco P310 wheel. It likely comes with the pedals because of this wheel’s second biggest feature: Xbox One compatibility.
-
11" default wheel, interchangable (optional Alcantera wheel is 12")
-
1080° rotation
-
16-bit resolution (65,536 steps)
-
Brushless motor
-
belt-driven system
-
Torque Unknown
-
Compatible with pedal upgrade (although already comes with T3PA pedals) and shifter add-on
-
Xbox One
Thrustmaster T-GT - The newest GranTurismo-themed wheel created in part with Sony and Polyphony Digital for the launch of Gran Turismo Sport. It's largely a T300 GT Edition combined with the more advanced aspects of the TS-PC Racer, along with a few extras of its own. The price of this wheel is the highest within this section, retailing at $800†2.
-
11" default wheel, interchangable (optional Alcantera wheel is 12")
-
1080° rotation
-
16-bit resolution (65,536 steps)
-
Brushless motor
-
belt-driven system
-
Torque Unknown
-
Compatible with pedal upgrade (although already comes with T3PA-based pedals) and shifter add-on
-
PS4
Fanatec CSL Elite
-
Wheel sold separately
-
1080° rotation
-
16-bit resolution (65,536 steps)
-
Brushless motor
-
belt-driven system
-
6 Nm torque
-
Compatible with shifter add-on and handbrake add-on, pedals sold separately
-
Xbox One†3
Fanatec CSL Elite PS4 - Fenatec once again manages to be the only manufacturer that has produced a wheel with an important detail: cross-platform compatibility. The Forza Motorsport CSR is compatible with all three platforms of the 7th generation, and this wheel is compatible with all three platforms†3 of the 8th generation.
-
11” default wheel, interchangeable
-
1080° rotation
-
16-bit resolution (65,536 steps)
-
Brushless motor
-
belt-driven system
-
6 Nm torque
-
Compatible with shifter add-on and hand break add-on, pedals sold separately
-
PS4, Xbox One†3
Fanatec Clubsport V2.5
-
Wheel sold separately
-
900° rotation
-
16-bit resolution (65,536 steps)
-
Brushless motor
-
belt-driven system
-
8 N.m
-
Compatible with shifter add-on and hand break add-on, pedals sold separately
-
Xbox One†3
Direct Drive, $1,000+ - These wheels are in a world of their own; direct drives wheels are the most powerful and most accurate on the market, along with the most wallet-flattening. These are PC only, real-car-wheel compatible, hardcore wheel bases. Some Fanatec sets may touch on direct drive prices, they won’t give you direct drive feel. These wheels aren’t for the faint of heart… or the low-funded. If you want more info on direct drive wheels, here’s a more detailed explanation.
SimExperience Accuforce - Has recently had a price drop, down to $1,299, wheel included.
-
12.5” optional wheel, interchangeable
-
900° - 4500° rotation
-
16-bit resolution (65,536 steps)
-
Brushless motor
-
Direct-drive system
-
13 Nm torque
-
Parts plug directly into USB, compatible with any upgrade; pedals sold separately
-
PC
Leo Bodnar SimSteering2 FFB System - They have three base options, and the price of their "basic" base is $2,000.
-
Wheel sold separately
-
1500° rotation
-
16-bit resolution (65,536 steps)
-
Brushless motor
-
Direct-drive system
-
16, 20.5, or 26 Nm torque (systems 52, 53 or 54, respectively)
-
Parts plug directly into USB, compatible with any upgrade; pedals sold separately
-
PC
Open Sim Wheel - Open source DD motors. Intended to be for DIY wheels; you're given the motor, but you handle all of the electronics yourself and essentially build it from scratch (experts only). However, these are utilized for pre-built systems by vendors like Sim Racing Bay or Simplicity as well.
-
Wheel sold separately
-
Varying rotation
-
13.2877-bit resolution (10,000 steps) or 14-bit resolution (16,384 steps), depending on the motor)
-
Brushless motor
-
Direct-drive system
-
20, 29, or 30 Nm torque
-
Parts plug directly into USB, compatible with any upgrade; pedals sold separately
-
PC
Ricmotech Mini-Mite
-
Wheel sold seperately
-
900° - 6000° rotation
-
Resolution Unknown
-
Brushless motor
-
Direct-drive system
-
13 Nm torque
-
Parts plug directly into USB, compatible with any upgrade; pedals sold separately
-
PC
Part Two: The Accessories
Did you think I was going to just tell you about the wheels and stop there? Why do you think I put “everything you need to know” in the title? After you’ve ordered your wheel and pedal kit, why not consider a shifter? Or why not just get a wheel base and whatever wheel and pedals you want, instead of being tied to a kit? Why am I asking so many questions?
The Thrustmaster add-ons are universal, meaning that the one add-on will work with every wheel thrustmaster makes. If you upgrade from a T500 to a T300, and had an Alcantera wheel with your T500, you could put it onto your T300 and use the T500's pedals with it as well. The Fanatec add-ons are completely universal between their servo bases.
Depending on the game you're playing, you'll likely be able to mix-and-match parts by plugging them into the USB ports. How much you can do this may vary, so make sure you understand how compatible your hardware pieces are before purchasing them.
Console Compatibility Adapter - Maybe you've got a wheel that was designed for Xbox One that you'd want to use on PS4 (or vice versa), maybe your wheel is PS3 compatible, but not PS4 compatible, or maybe you just don't want to have to deal with the idea of buying a new wheel just to keep up with the new console generation. Either way, you're looking to use a wheel on a console that it's not natively compatible with, right? Well don't worry, this problem has long been solved.
CollectiveMinds Drivehub
-
Compatible with all recent Logitech, Thrustmaster, and Fenetec wheel bases (not designed to work with Direct Drive wheels)
-
Updatable firmware (macOS and Windows compatible)
-
Additional port for using accessories
-
Full force feedback support
-
PS4, Xbox One
Pedals - Whether you want to upgrade from your lackluster 2-pedal Thrustmaster base set or you need something to go with your Accuforce wheel, here are the options you'll be looking at for pedals.
Fanatec CSL Elite Pedals
-
2 adjustable and movable pedals
-
12-bit resolution (4096 steps)
-
High-tension brake
-
No hard-mounting
-
Connects directly to Fenatec base or through USB with the Clubsport Adapter
-
Console compatible
Fanatec CSL Elite Pedals LC
-
3 adjustable and movable pedals
-
12-bit resolution (4096 steps) throttle and clutch, 16-bit resolution (65,536 steps) brake
-
Load-cell adjustable-tension (up to 90kg) brake
-
No hard-mounting
-
Connects directly to Fenatec base or through USB (adapter included)
-
Console compatible
Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V3
-
3 adjustable and movable pedals, pedal faces interchangeable
-
12-bit resolution (4096 steps)
-
Load-cell, adjustable-tension (up to 90kg), ABS-simulating-vibration brake, wheelspin/oversteer-simulating-vibration throttle
-
No hard-mounting
-
Connects directly to Fenatec base or through USB with the Clubsport Adapter
-
Console compatible
Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V3 Inverted
-
3 adjustable and movable pedals, brake and clutch pedals down-hanging, pedal faces interchangeable
-
12-bit resolution (4096 steps)
-
Load-cell, adjustable-tension (up to 90kg), ABS-simulating-vibration brake, wheelspin/oversteer-simulating-vibration throttle
-
No hard-mounting
-
Connects directly to Fenatec base or through USB with the Clubsport Adapter
-
Console compatible
Fast Track Sims Tilton Pedals
-
3 pedals
-
Unknown resolution
-
Unknown tension
-
No mounting available
-
Connects directly to USB
-
PC
Fast Track Sims Tilton 900 Series Pedals
-
3 pedals
-
Unknown resolution
-
Unknown tension
-
Hard mounting required
-
Connects directly to USB
-
PC
Heusinkveld Sim Pedals - Comes in two versions, Pro and Ultimate, the difference are the pedal tension limits, basically.
-
1 - 3 adjustable and independent pedals
-
12-bit resolution (4096 steps)
-
High-tension brake (up to 55 kg Pro or 136 kg Ultimate) and clutch (up to 14 kg Pro or 45 kg Ultimate)
-
Hard mounting optional (with their baseplate, Sim Lab baseplate also available)
-
Connects directly to USB
-
PC
Ricmotech RealGear GTpro1
-
3 pedals
-
Resolution unknown
-
Tension unknown
-
Hard mounting required
-
Connects directly to USB
-
PC
Ricmotech RealGear GTpro1 Overhung
-
3 pedals
-
Resolution unknown
-
Tension unknown
-
Hard mounting required
-
Connects directly to USB
-
PC
Ricmotech RealGear GTpro3 Xtreme
-
3 pedals
-
Resolution unknown
-
High-tension brake (up to160 kg)
-
Hard mounting required
-
Connects directly to USB
-
PC
Thrustmaster T3PA - A 3-pedal set, quite an upgrade from the two pedal base Thrustmaster includes with most of their standard wheel sets. However, if you get certain Thrustmaster kits, these will come with the wheel, often with unique pedal faces
-
3 pedals, adjustable pedal faces
-
10-bit resolution (1024 steps)
-
Moderate tension brake (10kg), optional brake mod (15 - 22 kg with mod)
-
Hard-mounting optional
-
Connects directly to Thrustmaster base or through USB with the TRJ12 adapter
-
Console compatible
Thrustmaster T3PA Pro - Still not satisfied with the T3PAs? Want to be able to invert your pedals GT style? Don't like that the T3PAs are made of plastic? That’s what this set is, an invertible, metal T3PA set, basically.
-
3 adjustable pedals, adjustable pedal faces, invertible
-
10-bit resolution (1024 steps)
-
Moderate tension brake (10kg), optional brake mods
-
Hard-mounting optional
-
Connects directly to Thrustmaster base or through USB with the TRJ12 adapter
-
Console compatible
Shifters - As nice as it is that just about every wheel comes with paddle shifters, sometimes they just don't cut it. It's a far more immersive experience to use shifter sometimes, especially for drifters and rally drivers.
ClubSport Shifter SQ V 1.5 - Similar to the TH8A shifter in that it can be used as an H-gate shifter or a sequential shifter, though it cannot be used as a handbrake.
-
H-gate (7 + R) and sequential modes
-
Hard-mounting optional, clamp mount
-
Connects directly to Fenatec base or through USB with the Clubsport Adapter
-
Console compatible
DSD Pro Sequential Shifter
-
Sequential
-
Hard mounting required
-
Connects through USB
-
PC
Logitech Driving Force shifter
-
H-gate (6 + R)
-
Clamp mounting only
-
Connects directly through Logitech base
-
Console compatible
SHH Shifters
-
H-gate (7 + R) and sequential modes
-
Hard-mounting optional
-
Connects directly through USB
-
PC
Thrustmaster TH8A
-
7 + R gears, able to be used as handbrake
-
H-gate and sequential modes (must be in sequential mode to use as handbrake)
-
Hard-mounting optional, clamp mount
-
Connects directly to Thrustmaster base or through USB
-
Console compatible
Rims - These are the ones specially designed to work with Thrustmaster and/or Fanatec bases, and some are already able to be bundled with wheel bases. No options for Logitech, as their wheels are not interchangable.
Fanatec Wheels - a sizable catalogue of all the customizable wheels Fanatec has to offer, too many to list individually. Click the link to see them.
-
Compatible with CSL Elite, CSL Elite PS4, and Clubsport bases
Thrustmaster 599X EVO Alcantara - a replica wheel of the Ferrari 599X EVO, notably wrapped in alcantara.
-
11.8” diameter, flat bottom
-
Metal frame with full alcantera wrapping, metal paddle shifters
-
Six buttons, D-pad, and 3-way switch
-
Compatible with TX, T300, T500, TS-PC/TS-XW, and T-GT bases
Thrusmaster Ferrari F1 - an F1 style wheel, licensed by Ferrari, featuring functional buttons
-
11” width
-
Metal frame with with rubber grips, metal paddle shifters
-
Eight buttons, two D-pads, and three 3-way switches
-
Compatible with TX, T300, T500, TS-PC/TS-XW, and T-GT bases
Thrustmaster Ferrari GTE 458 - replica of the— you know what, just read the name.
-
11” diameter
-
Metal frame with full rubber wrapping, metal paddle shifters
-
Six buttons, D-pad, and 3-way dial
-
Compatible with TX, T300, TS-PC/TS-XW, and T-GT bases
Thustmaster TM Leather 28 - Available in a TX bundle that also includes a T3PA set with unique black pedals.
-
11” diameter
-
Metal frame with full leather wrapping, metal paddle shifters
-
Six buttons, D-pad, and 3-way switch
-
Compatible with TX, T300, T500, TS-PC/TS-XW, and T-GT bases
Handbrakes - Are rallying and drifting your favourite forms of racing? Then you know how much better it feels to have an actual handbrake to pull; having to push that little button on a moving wheel won't cut it.
Aiologs handbrake - A home-made handbrake for PS3, PS4, and PC, made to order as it seems. Despite being a small project, it’s quite sophisticated.
-
45° pull
-
1 - 5 kg of tension
-
Vibration enabled
-
Hard-mounting and clamp optional
-
Connects through USB
-
Console compatible
DSD Hydraulic Handbrake
-
45° pull
-
Tension unknown
-
No vibration
-
Hard-mounting required
-
Connects through USB
-
PC
Fanatec ClubSport handbrake - One of the few professional handbrake axis add-ons on the market. Compatible with Fenatec wheels on console, and everything else on PC.
-
45° pull
-
Tension unkown
-
No vibration
-
Hard-mounting and clamp optional
-
Connects directly to Fenatec base or through USB with the Clubsport Adapter (PC only for USB)
-
Console compatible
Ricmotech RealGear RallyPro - Comes in two versions, with a 13 inch lever or 25 inch lever
-
45° pull
-
Up to 100 lbs tension
-
No vibration
-
Hard-mounting required
-
Connects directly to Ricmotech GTpro pedals, USB versions (13 inch, 25 inch) available
-
PC
Sim Racing Buyer's Guide, Part 2
For section 3: Rigs.
Sim Racing Buyer's Guide, Part 3
For sections 4: Games, and 5: Platforms (systems).
Sim Racing Buyer's Guide, Part 4
For section 6: Building, and the FAQ.
Notes †
1: Unconfirmed; based on unofficial source.
2: Technically, the range of the Standard wheel sub-section should be $400 - $800 due to the inclusion of the T-GT. However, since the T-GT is the only wheel at such a price, I feel it's better to have it as an exception instead of it re-defining the price range.
3: Fenatec bases require an addon for Xbox One compatibility, either the CSL Steering Wheel P1 or the Xbox One Universal Hub, otherwise the bases would be PC-only (except for the CSL PS4, which is compatible with PS4 regardless of addons)
I plan on updating this whenever new wheels or notable extras come out, to keep this post relevant. Please help me with that by sending me links to new hardware.
Mods, please integrate this into the wiki and sticky this post...
Man, I was super interested in sim driving but the starter price on this hobby is daunting. I could craft my own mounts, even use a junkyard bucket seat, but the wheel, pedals and shifter alone would run me at least 400 to have a reasonable setup. What a bummer.
Hi everyone,
Prospective iRacer here - I have been a console racer all my life all the way back to the original Gran Turismo on PS1. I don't currently own a PC suitable for gaming but am interested in building one for iRacing and perhaps some other games. (Rocket League, PUBG, etc.)
My question is this:
I want to go all-in and build a cockpit + wheel/pedal/shifter setup to get the most out of my experience. However, that is neither the most ideal or comfortable setup for KBM or controller use.
I'm wondering if anyone uses one PC for both applications, and if so, how? Are there any examples of something like this anywhere on the Internet? Or should I expect to end up with a different PC for each application?
I've searched high and low to no avail for info on this topic.
Thank you all for your time.