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How do you find the sample variance?
What does the sample variance tell us?
How do we calculate variance?
statistics computed from a sample of data
I'll do my best to summarise some of this in a hopefully digestible way. I think some of the confusion arises from the difference between "the variance of the sample mean" and "the variance of a sample" (and potentially the variance of the variance of a sample)
1: Variance of the Sample Mean. Take a sample of size N, calculate its mean. Take another sample, calculate its mean, etc... now you have lots of sample means. The variance of the means of those samples is the variance of the sample means
2: Sample variance: Take a sample of size N. Calculate the variance within that sample
3: Variance of sample variance. As in (1), take many samples of size N, calculate all of their variances, then calculate the variance of these.
Now let's state some facts about these
Sample Mean:
You sample N times from a distribution with mean $\mu$ and variance $\sigma ^{2}$. The expected value of your sample mean is $\mu$, and the variance of the sample mean (see (1) above) will be $\frac{\sigma ^{2}}{N}$
The above holds for most underlying distributions (there are some restrictions, e.g. the mean/variance must be defined).
If the underlying distribution is Gaussian, then we can say more than just what the expected value and variance of the sample mean will be. Then we know the full distribution. The sample mean will be a normally distributed with mean $\mu$ and variance $\frac{\sigma ^{2}}{N}$ (which is consistent with what I just said), but if the distribution is not normal, then this will only be approximately true as N increases (this is the central limit theorem). The number 30 is not a good benchmark for what a good N is, it depends on the distribution.
Sample Variance:
If you take a sample of size N from a distribution and calculate the variance of the sample ((2) above), its expected value is $\frac{N-1}{N}\sigma^{2}$, i.e. a little bit smaller than the true distribution's variance. So if you took many samples of size N, calculated the variance within each sample and averaged these variances, you'd expect to get the above.
I'm not aware if there is a formula for the variance on the variance ((3) above).
The above holds for most distributions (as with sample mean). If however you know the underlying distribution is normal, then again, you don't just know the expected value of the sample variance, you know its full distribution, and it's given by a chi-squared distributed with (N-1) degrees of freedom, which I believe is consistent with the expected value being $\frac{N-1}{N}\sigma ^{2}$, although this is not as obviously trivially true as in the sample mean case above.
t-statistic (combining the two)
Now when you take a sample from a distribution, the t-statistic is a way of combining the sample mean and sample variance, $\frac{\bar{x}}{\frac{s}{\sqrt{N-1}}}$ where $\bar{x}$ is the sample mean and $s$ is the square root of the sample variance. This might seem like a somewhat arbitrary quantity to calculate, but it turns out that one can show that this quantity follows the t-distribution with (N-1) degrees of freedom, provided the underlying data is sample from a normal distribution.
I'm not very knowledgable about what this is used for in practice (it's called a t-test but I don't use them much, so I'll let somebody else take this part), but it involves comparing the t-statistic of different samples and then referencing them against a "t-table" to determine whether they're likely to have come from the same underlying distribution or not. This is where the number 30 comes in. For samples of size N, you must reference a "t-table with N degrees of freedom". If turns out that as N grows to about 30, a t-table starts to look very similar to a Z-table. What that means is that for N>30, the t-statistic is distributed approximately normally, i.e. like the Z-statistic. The Z-statistic involves dividing the sample mean by the distributional variance if you know it...but in practice this is never the case, when would it ever be the case that you're sampling from a distribution whose mean you don't know but whose variance you do?
Note that all of this stuff around t- and z- statistics only apply when you assume that your sample has been sampled from a normal distribution. If you don't know the underlying distribution, you can still make some assertions (subject to some assumptions about the distribution) about expected values of the sample mean, the variance of the sample mean, and expected values of the sample variance, but knowing the means and variances of distributions is less powerful than knowing the full distribution.
Regarding your last point, you use the formula ((n-1)S^2) / σ^2 to compute inference tests on the sample variance. And yes, it is distributed as a chi-square with n-1 DF.