You would better off using a 1" CTS pack joint, as typically used for water service connections at the meter in my area. They clamp to the outside of the copper tube. Soft copper tubing is widely used here for water service, it comes in big rolls, and is very rarely perfectly round after it had been unrolled and laid in the trench.
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Bonding Around SharkBite Copper Plumbing Fittings | Information by Electrical Professionals for Electrical Professionals
Are SharkBite fittings approved for underground use?
What types of pipe are compatible with SharkBite fittings?
Can I reuse SharkBite fittings?
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These things seem like the perfect product. Does anyone have any long term experience with these leaking? How are they to work with?
Link: http://www.sharkbite.com
Edit:
Sounds like nothing but great things to say about them. I'll be using them as required. This latest project was a dishwasher installation.
You would better off using a 1" CTS pack joint, as typically used for water service connections at the meter in my area. They clamp to the outside of the copper tube. Soft copper tubing is widely used here for water service, it comes in big rolls, and is very rarely perfectly round after it had been unrolled and laid in the trench.
1" copper pipe is going to have an OD of 1.125 inches (1-1/8") when true.
You can round it from the outside using an adjustable wrench, or what is called a "crows-foot" wrench, to push the out-of-round parts inwards. In both cases, the wrench should have smooth jaws - you want to gently push the pipe into round, not rip bits off. You might consider applying some lubricant to the wrench jaws, but remember you'll have to solder this joint later (so maybe the lubricant can just be water).
Check your fitting for the depth of the hub. Your pipe has to be round for at least that distance -- not just the last 1/4". It's probably easiest to round from the main body of the pipe towards the end, rather than trying to round the end and then work inward.
3 foot section of copper pipe that had developed a pinhole leak. ... Our water here (Vancouver BC) is really soft.
While it could be the fitting, my initial reaction to this confluence of factors is "Well, then copper pipe is a terrible idea, and replacing a single section of copper pipe due to a pinhole is doing nothing about all the other sections of coper pipe being eaten by the water."
Where copper pipe is eaten by the water chemistry, you either need to alter the water chemistry or use pipe that does not corrode. And if you are replacing copper pipe that has been eaten, you need to look large-scale, because every bit of copper pipe in your house has been exposed to the same water for roughly the same amount of time.
So my first guess would be that the leak is most likely coming from the pipe beyond the replaced section.
My view on Sharkbite Fittings:
They are great for exposed plumbing. Especially for water heaters. They make a great quick disconnect system for appliances. I also am a big fan of their shutoff valves.
What I would not use them for us concealed work behind walls and ceilings. They are rated for it it they claim the rubber seal will last more than 20 years and are resistant to deterioration from corrosive water. But I simply don't trust them. I want my pipes to last 50 years.
The key to a good sharkbite connection is proper preparation of the pipe. Of you're using PEX, it's a no brainer. If you're using copper, you need to properly debur the fitting. Inserting a jagged sharp edge of copper into the fitting can tear the rubber o ring inside the sharkbite fitting. Also, don't use Emery cloth the clean the end of the pipe like you do when soldering. This can also cause a leak.