3 foot section of copper pipe that had developed a pinhole leak. ... Our water here (Vancouver BC) is really soft.
While it could be the fitting, my initial reaction to this confluence of factors is "Well, then copper pipe is a terrible idea, and replacing a single section of copper pipe due to a pinhole is doing nothing about all the other sections of coper pipe being eaten by the water."
Where copper pipe is eaten by the water chemistry, you either need to alter the water chemistry or use pipe that does not corrode. And if you are replacing copper pipe that has been eaten, you need to look large-scale, because every bit of copper pipe in your house has been exposed to the same water for roughly the same amount of time.
So my first guess would be that the leak is most likely coming from the pipe beyond the replaced section.
Answer from Ecnerwal on Stack ExchangeSo to be honest I am making this post in response to conversation I had with another user in r/askaplumber. I have included imgur links of the conversation we had if you wish to read it, however the simplified version is a compare and contrast to the effectiveness of shark bite fittings vs any other approved fitting for domestic potable water systems. I’m looking for input from ideally experienced plumbers in the field, regardless of location, on the topic: “Are shark bite fittings more prone to premature failure than other installation methods, elaborate as to why or why not? Assuming quality workmanship on both sides.” Any feedback is appreciated as well as a brief mention of your experience/credentials. Thanks!
Conversation we had —-> https://imgur.com/a/chLrHDv
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3 foot section of copper pipe that had developed a pinhole leak. ... Our water here (Vancouver BC) is really soft.
While it could be the fitting, my initial reaction to this confluence of factors is "Well, then copper pipe is a terrible idea, and replacing a single section of copper pipe due to a pinhole is doing nothing about all the other sections of coper pipe being eaten by the water."
Where copper pipe is eaten by the water chemistry, you either need to alter the water chemistry or use pipe that does not corrode. And if you are replacing copper pipe that has been eaten, you need to look large-scale, because every bit of copper pipe in your house has been exposed to the same water for roughly the same amount of time.
So my first guess would be that the leak is most likely coming from the pipe beyond the replaced section.
My view on Sharkbite Fittings:
They are great for exposed plumbing. Especially for water heaters. They make a great quick disconnect system for appliances. I also am a big fan of their shutoff valves.
What I would not use them for us concealed work behind walls and ceilings. They are rated for it it they claim the rubber seal will last more than 20 years and are resistant to deterioration from corrosive water. But I simply don't trust them. I want my pipes to last 50 years.
The key to a good sharkbite connection is proper preparation of the pipe. Of you're using PEX, it's a no brainer. If you're using copper, you need to properly debur the fitting. Inserting a jagged sharp edge of copper into the fitting can tear the rubber o ring inside the sharkbite fitting. Also, don't use Emery cloth the clean the end of the pipe like you do when soldering. This can also cause a leak.
So far they seem to be just as reliable, although given that they've only been on the market for a few years they don't have the same history as soldered connections. Here in the UK almost all new-build houses use push-fit connectors for concealed work as it's much quicker and easier.
You most likely do need to take extra care that the tube is perfectly round for an inch or so at the end, and that there's no bits of swarf, paint or other dirt there. Solder is good at filling in little gaps which push-fit connectors won't seal. On the other hand it's very easy to not heat a solder joint up enough to melt the solder properly, especially in confined spaces.
Obviously, make sure you push them in firmly.
Finally you don't really want to use them for exposed pipes, soldered joints are much neater.
I've not used Shark Bite, but I have used other push fit connectors and as long as you make sure that you push the pipes firmly into the connectors they do the job they're intended for.
I haven't had any leaks or other problems with them.
Another advantage is that you can rotate the pipes and fittings once they're in place so if you have a tight or awkward space to work in you're less restricted.
If you're not confident about your soldering skills then using compression or push fit connectors is probably a better idea as you can sort them out after the water's turned back on without necessarily having to drain the system again.
I recently posted some pictures of a repair on my Facebook page. The client claimed she had someone else in to install a shutoff valve. They used sharkbite fittings and left the homeowner with a bunch of leaks (according to the customer). They asked for it to all be replaced so I returned it to the copper tubing and soldered fittings that the rest of the house had. Solid fix, no leaks, I was happy about my first major plumbing repair. Unfortunately, people absolutely lost their shit in the comments defending sharkbite fittings and shitting on my work for not just redoing the sharkbites properly and adding a fitting that was missing. I've always heard sharkbites were kind of hacky and better suited to temporary repairs or diy fixes. What do you all think about sharkbites?