The plumber came out today and showed me how to remove it. The Evil Greebo was right, the stem itself unscrewed. The plumber took off the handle and escutcheon, then put the handle knob back on to further unscrew the stem. He did this very slowly and used a lot of force. He had a lot of difficulty with the cold, and that is the one I had started with, so it is not surprising I was doubtful of this being the way it was supposed to work.
The plumber thinks it is Sterling, because those were popular around here years ago and they were low cost, the type that someone would put in the downstairs shower.
Answer from melalvai on Stack ExchangeThe plumber came out today and showed me how to remove it. The Evil Greebo was right, the stem itself unscrewed. The plumber took off the handle and escutcheon, then put the handle knob back on to further unscrew the stem. He did this very slowly and used a lot of force. He had a lot of difficulty with the cold, and that is the one I had started with, so it is not surprising I was doubtful of this being the way it was supposed to work.
The plumber thinks it is Sterling, because those were popular around here years ago and they were low cost, the type that someone would put in the downstairs shower.
Had similar situation... with the diverter on a Sterling three handle fixture. I wasn’t able to get a plumbing socket wrench inside the escutcheon sleeve, and I didn’t have a mechanic’s deep socket long enough to remove the valve stem. I was seaching for special tool options, when I found this thread. Decided to do as the plumber and use the handle... only, the molded plastic where the threads fit had crumbled away. So couldn’t use the handle. Instead, I used a pipe wrench to slowly turn the stem... and to my surprise, the end snapped off:
I was then able to use a ratchet wrench with a 2” long, six point, 5/8” socket to remove the rest of the valve. It wasn’t a perfect fit, but it worked.
Seems like the bonnet came Out but the chrome part is still in there- is there a tool I should be using?
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These things are stuck and I'm guessing I need more leverage but I don't know what tool to search for. I have a valve socket that came with the replacement kit but the short lever isn't enough for me to break them loose. I tried using a screwdriver I have but I guess it's still not long enough or I need to hit the gym. I tried spraying them down with wd-40 with no luck.
I have a pretty strong drill, is there a valve socket that has an attachment ment for a drill or socket wrench?
Beyond the threads, (to the left of the threads in the pic), there are flats that indicate it can be turned to get the stem out.
Use a deep socket or an open end wrench (or, if it's all you have, an adjustable wrench) and turn counter clock-wise.
The seal at the end of the stem may need to be replaced. There may be debris in the seat or damage. It all will be revealed when the stem is out.
Before you take the stem out.
After many years of usage the rotational stop has moved out of position, as indicated by
When I turned it to get more water the water instead would get smaller until it is fully stopped.
Check the inside of the knob to see the stop setting and if it is adjustable.
There is a second hint, as a black ring with flat surface part over the valve rod. Try to adjust it.
Seems like the bonnet came out but the chrome part is still in there. How do I get it out so I can match it?
Thank you Ed Beal. Yes, these are washer-less ceramic valves. I changed the cartridge and it was simple than I thought. Basically you remove the plate and turn the chrome sleeve counter clockwise to remove it. Then use a channel lock to loosen the cartridge by holding the edge of the cartridge and turning it counter clockwise. Installed a new cartridge and gave it a gentle tight snug. No more leaks and shower works very well.
Please see the pics I took.
This is the cartridge part number
After removing plate and sleeve
After loosening the cartridge
Cartridge removed
Installed a new cartridge
That those are 1/4 turn or limited turn I would say they are washer-less valves. I would look around the outside of the body of the valve to see if there is a set screw / grub screw holding the cartridge in place, if you can not find a screw look closely at the brass hex piece that is cut out for the stop. Is that threaded on the outside if so it may unscrew or be a packing I am not sure but that is a possibility. If it is a packing the clip and stop will probably need to be removed to unscrew and not damage the cartridge. Replacement o rings should be easy to find once you get it apart.