I'd get a kit like this . Can hook the other showerhead to where the sprayer hooks up. You can order just the parts you need. Valve bodies and trim. More on reddit.com

Ask your do it yourself plumbing questions and get free answers as well as DIY information about faucets, toilets, pumps and water filters from plumbers at Plbg.com More on plbg.com

Toilets, Sinks, Showers, Dishwashers, Tubs and Garbage Disposals - Shower valve depth in wall - rough in / other questions - I got a moen shower stall kit. It's got a head, handle, trim and valve. the instructions however are ALL pictures and really not clear. More on doityourself.com

The only time I ever spec out a HF is if a customer isn’t doing a tub filler and is putting three outlets with a diverter or if the customer is only doing one or two outlets and makes a point that they want high flow. (I do the high flow to make them feel better since we sell them at about the same price as the normal one. It doesn’t actually make a difference in that case.) Keep in mind, the high flow is high flow because it doesn’t have a tub outlet, so if you’re doing a tub/shower, don’t use the HF. If you’re doing a tub/shower with just a shower head, or a basic shower with one or two outlets, don’t worry about getting the HF. A typical showerhead is going to be 2.5GPM or less, so your showerhead is going to restrict the flow more than your valve will. The other thing to keep in mind is that there are two different types of pex; cold expansion and crimp. The valve you listed is for cold expansion, this is typically only used by plumbers because the tool needed is expensive. Crimp pex is used by both plumbers and diyers. If you’re not sure what pex you’re using, get the crimp pex valve. It can be used with cold expansion or crimp pex. I’d also get one with service stops. Stops allow you to service the valve without turning the water off to the house. So, with all that said, if you don’t need the HF, I’d get the R10000-PXWS. More on reddit.com