First, that "bulb" has a mogul base not a standard base.

Let's talk thermal efficiency, first. In a perfect conversion, 1 watt makes 683 lumens. So with an incandescent bulb making 16 lumens per watt, the incandescent made about 2.4% light and 97.6% heat. So we treated a 60W bulb as making 60W of heat.

LEDs might be 140 lumens/watt. So they make 20% light and 80% heat. But again, we might as well treat a 12 watt LED bulb like it's making 12 watts of heat. The form of the heat doesn't really change anything.

No. Fixtures have thermal ratings which still apply.

You could always get a 250 watt incandescent bulb in the usual shapes. So there has always been a way to get plenty of light. Incandescents love heat, so the #1 design feature of a fixture is to keep the hot incandescents from burning the house down. Thus, each fixture has a "wattage rating" that really applies to the heat made by the bulb. And as discussed at the start, the "actual watts" of the LED is an accurate reflection of that heat.

So your fixture should be identified with a "maximum allowed watts" of incandescent bulb. That is based on the heat made by that size bulb (i.e. that many watts). The same restriction applies to the actual watts of an LED.

You are proposing absolutely crazy sized * LEDs which are 200 watts actual. That is going to exceed the thermal rating of any common household fixture. The excess heat will burn your house down, but prior to that...

The LED "bulbs" will not be able to keep cool

With LED fixtures it is absolutely vital that they remain cool. The junction temp must be kept below 85C (that's right at the chip) or 115C at the absolute outside with some degradation over time. Thermal management is a big deal, and is the driving factor on large LED designs.

Looking at this thing (scaling to the fact that it has a Mogul base)... - I'm sorry, no. It simply doesn't have enough surface area to radiate 200W of heat and provide the junction temperatures LEDs need. That's in open air... buttoned up inside a fixture designed for incandescents, forget it. The bulb will last weeks and then fail.

Also, check the size of it. It's huge. Remember that is a Mogul Base so it's 1-1/2 x the size of a normal base.

Anyway, you want quality light

For what you're trying to do, light quality matters. They have a quality rating for lights, called CRI, which reflects how it corresponds (to the eye) to an ideal blackbody source like an incandescent or the sun. (that = 100 CRI). Now those low-pressure sodiums are about -35 CRI (you think I'm joking) and of course that's why you don't want them.

Well, cheap Cheese LEDs also have abominable CRI, since they sell to chumps on Amazon. You want between 90 and 98 CRI. Why do I say that? Because I buy big lighting cheap, and the stuff I buy is between 90 and 98 CRI. Just random stuff at Menards (think Wickes).

If you don't get top shelf CRI, then your body/eyes won't be fooled into thinking it's not winter. The same is true of color temperature - you have to select color temperature correctly for the condition you're trying to treat, and again that cheap Cheese garbage isn't going to be true to any color temperature they claim.

There's a better way to get Big Big Lumens

Don't even waste your time trying to cram it into existing fixtures. Just go a different way and get fixtures and bulbs actually designed to make biblical quantities of lumens.

My "go-to" for huge lumens is old tube fluorescent fixtures. Interesting fact about those. They are typically four feet long, which means they are too large to fit in standard rubbish bins. As such, Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace are awash with people begging you to haul them away :) I collect them by the dozen. I smile and wince as they show me their shop full of very harsh LED lights.

What do you do with an old fluorescent fixture to get GREAT light? Well, of course there are LED retrofit "tubes" but I find them harsh, the brands are hokey with bad quality control and marketing lies.

I myself stay in the domain of REAL fluorescent. I get electronic ballasts off eBay (quality brands) - no flicker, no buzz, always starts in the cold. Random fluorescent tubes from my local home store are 90 CRI for real, so getting quality light is as easy as falling off a horse - very little caveat emptor. The quality is first rate - the tubes and ballasts are quality brands like Sylvania or Philips.

Shop lights hold 2 tubes per fixture. Troffers hold 4 tubes per fixture. You can also get troffers that hold six fluorescent tubes, but those are harder to find for free.

So you pause to figure out how many lumens you really need, and dense-pack your ceiling with these fluorescent fixtures. You could also put more fixtures than you think you'll need, and just add and remove tubes as needed to dial it in.