Figured it's useful to post the bulk of the content here. In short, these terms will help you narrow down your EBay and etsy searches, or help you search more efficiently at thrift stores. (Or, hey, subscribe to Comma, Vintage and we'll send you some.)

GLOSSARY OF VINTAGE T-SHIRT TERMS

50/50 or FIFTY-FIFTY:

50/50 is term used to describe t-shirts made from a blend of equal parts cotton and polyester. I find 50/50 t-shirts more commonly than 100% cotton ones. Nevertheless, it’s often used in listings and so worth familiarizing yourself.

DEADSTOCK:

Deadstock refers to a t-shirt in new and unworn condition. Among vintage items, deadstock t-shirts are relatively common. They may have sat unsold in a screen-printers inventory for decades before being donated or sold.

Because they were not often individually tagged or packaged, determining whether a piece is deadstock requires some sleuthing:

• Smooth seams: On a shirt that has been washed, the seams will often cinch up, creating a bit of a ripple at the hem and shoulders.

• Crisp tag: The tags on many vintage t-shirts are made of a stiff, papery material. These tags degrade quickly after washing.

• Found in bulk: If you find 7 or 70 identical t-shirts together, it’s likely that they’re unworn. Printers often liquidate inventory in lots rather than as individual pieces.

Use of the term “deadstock” seems to me a bit more lenient in vintage t-shirt sales than in jeans or sneakers. I endorse use of the term so long as condition is reasonably deduced.

It’s a different calculus than with Jordans or Levi’s, of course: Many deadstock t-shirts are being sold for daily wear and can be had for less than $20. With items over $100, look for stronger evidence.

IRON-ON HEAT TRANSFER:

An iron-on graphic is exactly what it sounds like: An image or text transferred to the fabric using heat. They are subject to peeling and cracking, and generally don’t hold up well to numerous washes. On the flip side, they often feature photographs and detail difficult to otherwise put on a t-shirt. What’s more, vintage iron-on graphics can be bought unused and newly applied to any t-shirt you please.

MOUNTED COLLAR:

A mounted collar is sewn onto the top of the t-shirt, rather than sewn under the fabric. In my experience, mounted collars hold their shape better than sewn-under ones.

Finding a mounted collar is not a certain way to find a vintage t-shirt. Nevertheless, an older vintage t-shirt–from the 1960s, for example–is more likely to have a mounted collar than one from the 1980s or 1990s. So, do a double check if you see one in the wild.

PAPER THIN:

This term is used to describe t-shirts that are particularly well-worn and soft. A common practice of proof is hold the shirt up to a light. I tried my best below, though there are much thinner shirts in the world. Showing a hand through a paper-thin t-shirt is a popular photograph. So, here is mine.

RINGER:

Ringer describes a t-shirt with a different colored collar and cuffs and made from the same ribbed material. They offer a distinctively vintage look.

SCREEN PRINTED:

Screen printed t-shirts are what you’re most likely to find. In screen printing, an inky medium is pressed through a screen and onto the t-shirt. Because the process is a bit laborious and requires set up, many vintage screen printed t-shirts–especially those from small events or local institutions–feature only one or two colors.

“SELVAGE POCKET:”

Many sellers erroneously use this term to describe the reinforcement tape used within the pockets of many vintage t-shirts. The fabric used is not selvage in the least.

T-shirts with reinforced pockets tend to be of good age and are among my favorites to wear, so it’s useful term to have in your ebaying arsenal.

SINGLE STITCH:

Single stitch refers to the prevalent mode of construction in vintage t-shirts. Specifically, it refers to the finishing on the cuff, hem, and shoulder of the t-shirt, where a single line of stitching secures the fabric edge. On most contemporary t-shirts–your standard Gildan, for example–a double row of stitching is used.

Single stitch construction is one of the most reliable ways to identify a vintage t-shirt. When thrifting, you might scan the t-shirt rack cuff by cuff rather than flipping through every single hanger.

Of course, not every interesting vintage t-shirt is single stitch, and not every single stitch t-shirt is truly vintage. A number of brands use single stitch construction to replicate the vintage look. And many vintage shirts, especially those from the 90s, may not be single stitched throughout. It’s nevertheless a good way to distinguish between a true vintage item and a reproduction.

THRASHED:

Thrashed is the go-to term to describe a shirt as heavily worn though still wearable. The fabric will be thin, there may be holes and tears, and there may be stains.

Generally, the damage is from frequent washing and wear: Discolored collars, holes at the shoulders, and frayed hems are common. Natural fading and repairs are often desired. A giant wine stain on the front generally does not contribute to thrashiness.

TRI-BLEND:

Tri-blend refers to vintage t-shirts made from a fabric knit from cotton, polyester, and rayon yarn. These t-shirts are desirable for their rarity, softness and durability. The yarns are often heathered, giving the fabric a unique, variegated look.

TUBULAR KNIT (OR, CIRCULAR KNIT):

Circular knit t-shirts are made from fabric knit into a tube shape. As a result, t-shirts made with circular knit fabric lack side seams. In my experience, tubular knit t-shirts drape more fluidly and more naturally than shirts with side seams.On many new and vintage t-shirts, two panels of fabric are joined with side seams.

Please note that circular knit does not mean loop-wheeled. It’s a bit of a frog and toad scenario: Loop wheeled fabrics are made on a particular kind of vintage circular knitting machine. You can read more about loopwheeled fabrics at Heddel’s, though understand that circular knitting is still done on an industrial scale in 2018.