These things are stuck and I'm guessing I need more leverage but I don't know what tool to search for. I have a valve socket that came with the replacement kit but the short lever isn't enough for me to break them loose. I tried using a screwdriver I have but I guess it's still not long enough or I need to hit the gym. I tried spraying them down with wd-40 with no luck.
I have a pretty strong drill, is there a valve socket that has an attachment ment for a drill or socket wrench?
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Shower is lukewarm. Bathroom faucet scalding hot, so it isn’t a water heater issue. Trying to work on addressing the problem, both the upstairs and downstairs showers are experiencing the same issue.
I’m trying to adjust the anti scald device in the showers but can’t get these shower handles off. There’s no visible screws, no logos, and I’ve tried twisting both left and right but am concerned I’m going to break something if I twist any harder than I’m twisting now.
Any ideas on next steps? Anyone dealt with a similar faucet handle before?
Pics of my situation and the problem handles. They’re identical (upstairs, downstairs)
Hi, I need help. I am trying to remove my bathtub handle. I thought I simply had to use an Allen key but it does not work. There seems to be a pin or something inside where you unscrew with the Allen key (see picture) I tried using torx without luck. Any idea? What are my options to pull out everything if I can't find the right tool or if I can't unscrew for some reason?
I assume you want to replace the faucet.
Options:
Drill it out. You don't care if you wreck the stem of the valve.
Drill and try an extractor. I usually never can find one the right size. I have a set. Somewhere.
Once your pretty sure that it's not holding the handle on, you may need additional persuasion to get the handle off.
- Start off with a low viscosity lubricant, such as bolt-out. Caution may change the colour of grout.
The handle may be cemented on with calcium/magnesium carbonates (what makes water hard) Soaking in passivated muriatic acid may release it. This will take hours to days. Caution: Review safe acid handling.
If the handle is metal you can try heating it with a heat gun. If the valve itself is plastic this may make life more difficult.
If you decide to to pry it off, protect the wall with a couple of chunks of 2x4. Run them horizontally and pry from above and below. If working alone, you can hold them in place temporarily with duct tape. A 2 foot chunk will span standard stud spacing. This, I think will minimize any flexing of the wall which might crack tile or grout.
A better way may be to rig something using puller jaws and a a slide hammer.
In response to a comment: Turn off the water, and have your replacement parts ready. Depending on how cheap the contractor who built the house was, there may or may not be individual shutoffs for the shower or just hte bathroom. I've done many repairs that required shutting off water the entire house. As a result of this, my first step in a repair is to add additional shut off valves. (I live a 40 minute drive from the nearest big box store. Few repairs are done without at least two trips to the store. Being without water all day isn't a win. I now keep a couple of quarter turn ball valves in 1/2" solder ends (since I have a copper plumbed house) on hand so I can start with that.)
If you do try to drill the screw out a left-hand drill bit might be worthwhile. I've had a few occasions when drilling a broken fastener with a left-hand drill removed the fastener. I don't know that I've ever had success with an extractor -- it's difficult to get the hole centered, the right size, adequate depth.. and then the extractor just shatters in the hole anyway.
The handle could be removed in sections. Using a hack saw or reciprocating saw, cut the main part off perpendicular to the stem and far enough back from the valve body that the saw cuts only handle, not stem. Next cut what remains of the handle along the axis of the stem so that the handle shell can be split into two halves and broken away. A rotary tool such as a Dremel may be useful here. Hopefully at this point you'll have reached the inner part of the handle casting which is actually contacting the stem. Repeat the cut-and-split process on this piece too.
There's some chance of damaging the valve stem or the escutcheon, but both of these as well as the handle can be replaced individually if desired.