Super fast printing with Ender 3 Pro at 150 mm/s and 2000 mm/s^2 acceleration. Benchy in 1 hour 3 minutes.
Printing fast!
So I just started lurking in the voron subs and probably won't be building one for some time, so take this advice with a grain of salt:
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Filament brand and alloy actually does make a difference - some melt much faster than others. I would start here and get a brand/formula that is proven to get the speed you're looking for, like one specifically mentioned in a high speed YouTube video or blog post. In fact, it wouldn't be a terrible idea to straight up cop a known working set of filament and machine settings from someone running hardware similar to what you have.
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From what it looks like, people running at high speeds are using hotend temps above normal settings, like a video I saw of a speed benchy using ASA at 300 deg. I'm not sure if there's a safe upper limit to each type of filament, like it could combust or something, so maybe do some googling and see if that's a thing? Personally, if I couldn't find anything negative about it, I'd prob start running progressively hotter and faster temp towers until shit starts to make sense.
Voron V0 vs V0.1 printing fast / printing at higher temperatures?
Pure PC is that particar kind of alluring material that looks almost printable. But its very much an almost. I would not recommend pure PC on any kind of consumer desktop thing. 120c feels like youre looking at the stats of a blended filament. Possibly PC-ABS?
I believe pure PC likes approx 150c bed and around 100c chamber. Hot enough to cause problems for the ABS parts, and probably hot enough to cause issues for the bed adhesive.
Assuming its PC blend you want to print. The 0.0 has a 100w AC bed which you could use with the SSR from the original BOM. But, the 60w will probably reach 120c anyway. However, spec for the thermal fuse is 125c. Id strongly recommend keeping it below 120. If you really want to try this. But id still expect it to have some printing issues unless you can get that chamber temp up, and then youre going to have to think about building it from something other than ABS. And belts will probably struggle with the temps too. And its not just a case of find a plastic with a higher HDT. You have to be careful not to use something that will suffer material creep, or be too flexible or too rigid. Its a real balancing act. Id say, curb your expectations on printing PC filaments.
As far as speed goes, the 0.1 has bigger motors to move the toolhead around. If you really wanted the fastest, you could use those with the 0.0 toolhead and bowden. Id strongly recommend the 0.1 though for ease of assembly, and for bearing stacks instead of toothed idlers on the carridge. Amongst other small changes made between versions. The 0.1 motors were made larger because of the number of people trying to do speedboats. They dont actually need to be all that big for regular opperation. But theres no downside to going bigger apart from cost.
On top of that, the direct drive toolhead is actually pretty light weight. Its probably only adding 120g~ to the weight of the bowden toolhead. And if you are printing fast, direct drive allows a lower Pressure Advance value, meaning less work for the extruder. And you end up with nicer prints.
For reference, the direct drive toolhead is easily capable of great looking prints at 100mm/s with 4kmm/s/s accels.
One last thought. If the $100 gets you LDO or OMC motors over un-named china motors, pay the $100 itll be worth it.
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