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Are the drawer fronts compatible with all types of drawer boxes?
You can install our drawer fronts to any drawer box with a front substrate to screw through. You can also fasten to drawer systems from various hardware manufacturers such as Blum.
Do you offer matching cabinet doors and drawer fronts?
All of our pre-configured drawer fronts will have a matching door. Simply match up the name of the front to the door name. You will also see that some flat panel fronts will have a matching raised panel front.
Can I order custom-sized drawer fronts from your store?
All of our drawer fronts are custom-made to the size that you order. Drawer front sizes are available in 1/16″ increments.
I’m in the process of updating/painting our kitchen cabinets and am not sure how to best proceed with the drawers. I purchased new drawer fronts to match the shaker style cabinet doors I purchased, but I’m not sure the best way to attach them to the existing drawers, which have the sides dovetailed(?) into the current fronts. I read that one option is to cut down the current fronts to the width and height of the drawer and reverse the guides so the front becomes the back, then attach the new drawer front to what was the back of the drawer. Is that my best option here?
It would help if you can identify the manufacturer. Frequently the manufacturer will have some sort of marking on the side of the drawer boxes. Pull out some of the drawers and see if you find anything indicating who built them.
It's also common for manufacturers to leave a label somewhere in the sink base cabinet. Look on the door or inside the cabinet to see if you find anything. The label will typically indicate the style and finish.
As beazors mentioned it looks like you're also missing the front of the drawer box and you're probably better off getting a whole drawer assembly if possible.
The major home centers, Lowes, Home Depot, etc can typically order items such as this custom made. If the cabinet was originally a "stock" size cabinet from such a place, it should be easy to get a replacement. You may or may not be able to find a match to the finish, though. I would hesitate to spend a lot on a really good replacement as a merely adequate replacement would probably fill your need and not be an issue for the next owner. Bring the existing drawer in, and possibly one of the others, as a sample. If two drawers are the same, bring the completed one with you and ask for a copy of that. Be sure to measure the width, depth, and height where the drawer will go.
Alternatively, you could look locally in the yellow pages or google maps for custom cabinet shops. Some of the smaller ones may pick up any work they can get and would most likely be able to stain match what you have already. You'll pay more though, shop time in a good cabinet shop can be $60 to $100 or more, and for a drawer like that, they might charge you for several hours of work including the staining/finishing.
Metal corner braces will work to some degree, but will be hideous. I recently rebuilt one in my home that had been repaired that way. You'll see them every time you open the drawer, along with the torn-out face of the panels.
I would cut a new board (solid wood, plywood, particle board) exactly the size of the inner dimensions of the drawer, and mount it to the back side of the drawer front using countersunk flathead screws and glue. This will then slide into the drawer when the front is put in place, giving you solid mounting and covering the damaged surfaces.
Carefully pilot and countersink flathead screws from the sides and bottom of the drawer to attach the drawer front via this new board. Glue would be a good idea here, too.
Plan view:
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drawer front
Actually, that would be a good idea. Still wont last forever, but it's a good fix. Just make sure to pilot drill holes, use screws that won't protrude, and add wood glue to the screws too.